Valletta in Sepia (3) – Auberge de Castille

 

The Auberge de Castille was the official residence of the Knights of the Langue of Castille, Leon and Portugal, one of the most powerful of the Order. Auberges were inns or residences for those knights that did not have a house in Malta.

The original auberge was built by Maltese architect Girolamo Cassar in 1574. It was virtually re-built in 1741 and the present imposing structure is attributed to Andrea Belli. This auberge is one of the most ornate buildings in Valletta and it is built on the highest point of the capital city, commanding views of the harbour and of the surrounding towns and countryside.

During British rule it was used as the headquarters of the British Army. Today it houses the Office of the Prime Minister.

Ghajn Tuffieha

Situated on the north-west coast of our island is a little gem of a bay known as Ghajn Tuffieha. This bay is rather secluded and access is via around 200 steps that lead down to the beach from a car park situated at the top of the hill. Another option is to hike down the clay footpaths. In this area there is a predominant layer of clay which supports a very unique type of flora and fauna. The clay hills which enclose this bay are protected areas and are patrolled and monitored by the GAIA Foundation ( a non-profit, non-government organization that specializes in environment management). Various projects are underway to propogate  and conserve endemic species and phase out any others that are not part of the local ecosystem. The entrance to this bay is guarded to this day by a tower built in the 17th century. History is never too far away in Malta.

With its stretch of red-gold sand and crystal clear blue water, this little bay is an idyllic spot both during the summer and in winter. Whilst summer-time finds this beach crowded with sunbathers and swimmers, in the winter it is transformed into an oasis of serene beauty: a place where you can sit down and enjoy the silence while listening to the sea whisper its secrets.

 

 

These photos were taken on a bright and sunny winter’s day last year. They were taken from the footpaths and the only glimpse of the sandy beach is in the very first picture.

Ruby Tuesday - Little Red Door

After a long absence from Ruby Tuesday I decided to participate with this photo of a little red door belonging to an old house. It makes me wonder whether our ancestors were trying to save on wood or whether they were just vertically challenged.

For more Ruby Tuesday participants go here.

St George’s Square

St  George’s square in Valletta (formerly know as the Main Guard) is one of the most important open spaces in the capital city. In the past the square was used for the changing of the guard parade. When this ceremony stopped taking place at the end of British rule in Malta, it was turned into a car park. It was difficult to appreciate the beauty of this square, flanked on one side by the Grand Master’s Palace (which now houses the Maltese Parliament), when it was full of cars. Thankfully, the square has been restored and now serves as an attraction in the heart of our capital city.  If it is splendid by day, by night it is quite magical, with a gorgeous water, music and light show which only serves to enhance the surrounding magnificent architecture.

 

Valletta in Sepia (2) – Abandoned and Derelict

This is a house in Merchants’ Street. It has been abandoned and forgotten as have many beautiful buildings in Valletta. Many of these houses are huge and cost a fortune to maintain. Not many people can afford to live on such a grand scale any more. So most  of these houses, or perhaps I should say mansions, now rot away slowly before our eyes. Shops have been opened on the ground floor of many of them but it seems that the upper storeys are left to fall into disrepair. It is a shame because these stately houses boast of some very beautiful Baroque architecture. My hope is that one day private or public funds will be donated to restore these buildings to their former glory. Meanwhile, I will continue to gaze in awe at their crumbling facades and imagine them as they used to be whilst freezing them forever in this moment in time with my camera.

Valletta in Sepia (1) – St John’s Courtyard

The foundation stone of Valletta was laid in 1566 on what was then known as the Sceberras Peninsula. Surrounded by water on three sides, Valletta was in a key position to defend the entrance to the Grand Harbour. The plan for the new fortified city was drawn up by Grand Master La Vallette, the hero of the great siege of 1565.

Valletta is a gem of Baroque architecture and, as such, lends itself to some spectacular photos of palaces, auberges, fortifications and churches. In colour, Valletta is beautiful, but I think (and this is just my opinion) that it is in sepia that the true beauty of this small city can best be appreciated. At least, when I find myself wandering its streets with a camera in my hand, I find myself shooting in sepia, hoping to do justice to its grandeur and most times finding myself overwhelmed by it.

So I have decided to start a series of posts entitled ‘Valletta in Sepia’ to share some of the gems this city has to offer with you. Today’s shots are of the back courtyard of St John’s Co-cathedral.

Manoel Island and its Fort

Manoel Island is situated in the Sliema Creek and is connected to the mainland by means of a small bridge. It was originally known as l’Isola del Vescovo (the Bishop’s Island ). In 1726 Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena paid for the construction of a fort as a defence of western Valletta. The fort was designed by Chevalier Francois de Mondion and was built in the Baroque style. It has a large central Place d’Armes encircled by two tiers of arched barracks and a chapel dedicated to St Anthony of Padua. During WW2 the chapel was virtually destroyed from a direct hit by Luftwaffe bombers in March 1942.

Apart from the fort, an isolation hospital (Lazzaretto) had been built on the island in 1643 by Grandmaster Jean Paul Lascaris in an attempt to control the influx of plague and cholera from visiting ships.

I first visited Fort Manoel about 12 years ago. The fort, the chapel and the surrounding fortifications were in a state of disrepair. It felt eerie to be walking around the ruins of once-proud buildings. There was a sense of desolation about the place - time, war and vandals had taken their toll on the beautiful symmetry of the buildings.

In 2006 the fort was entrusted to MIDI, a development firm that is carrying out extensive restoration and renovation in the fort and its surroundings. A few weeks ago, an open weekend was held for the public to appreciate the work that has been carried out and to be able to, once again, admire the military architecture of this fort.

     

Ruby Tuesday: Balcony

Today's entry ties up with my previous post. This is a balcony in Mdina. Our buildings are mostly made of limestone and red contrasts really well with it. This is especially true of older buildings because as the limestone ages it turns a honey yellow so red doors, windows and balconies act as a perfect foil.

This balcony is somewhat different in that the lattice work on it is quite unusual and is not a common feature of Maltese balconies.

For more Ruby Tuesdays from around the world go over to Mary the Teach at Work of the Poet.

The Silent City

If Malta had a crown, then Mdina would be its jewel. Situated on hill, it has seen its fair share of invading armies and battles. Yet its walls have withstood the test of time and today it passes its days silently dreaming of its past.

Mdina was the capital city of Malta until the construction of Valletta in 1566. Its narrow streets are lined with medieval buildings amongst which are interspersed various palaces from the Baroque era.

Unearthed remains indicate that Mdina has been inhabited since Punic times and was the chief city of Malta during the Roman era, when it was much larger and incorporated a large part of the neighbouring city of Rabat within its walls. During the Arab conquest of Malta, Mdina was reduced to its current size, but continued to maintain its status as the capital city of the island. It was during this time that the city was fortified with high bastion walls and a dry moat.

When Malta was handed over to the Knights of St John in 1530, the nobility residing in Mdina handed the keys of the city to Grand Master L’Isle Adam. Being a sea-faring Order, the Knights preferred to reside in the maritime city of Birgu where they could be close to their ships. After the Great Siege of 1566, Grand Master La Vallette laid the foundation stone of the new capital city, Valletta. Following this, Mdina faced a period of decline which was made worse by an earthquake in 1693 which destroyed many buildings of the old city including the Gothic cathedral. In later years various palaces and buildings were constructed by the Knights who tried to instill new life into the now almost deserted city. However it never quite recaptured the vibe of its heyday. Its inhabitants dwindled from 4000 in the middle ages to around 400 in the present day.

By day, Mdina is thronged with tourists. By night, it belongs to the ghosts of the past.

It has endured much and has emerged unscathed. In an age when everything is continuously changing, it has remained constant, its beauty undiminished, its mystery unsolved. Perhaps one day it will break the silence and tell us its story. Perhaps one day it will tell us the names of the people that walked its streets hundreds of years ago. But I think that we will have to be content to use our imagination and make up stories about its past. Because, like a proper lady, Mdina knows that its charm lies in revealing almost nothing about itself and so it beckons the intrigued visitor, inviting him to discover her charms. But, like the ladies of old, it remains aloof and discreet, sheltered behind its high walls and smiling secretly in the knowledge that it will endure long after the mortals that walk through the streets are no more.

The Story of a Palace

San Anton Palace began its existence as a country villa built by Fra Antoine de Paule, a Knight of the Order of St John. Following his election as Grand Master, the villa was enlarged to accommodate his numerous guests and entourage, which even included a baker who specifically baked black bread for the hunting dogs. The current structure was constructed between 1632 and 1635, when the Grand Master decided to enlarge the villa into palace in favour of building a trireme galley, and was used as his summer residence. The Grand Master named the palace San Anton after his patron saint, Anthony of Padua. Successive Grand Masters continued to use the palace as their summer residence.

During the uprising of the Maltese against the French in 1799, San Anton Palace became the seat of the National Assembly until the capitulation of Valletta by the French in September 1800. Subsequently Captain (later Sir) Alexander Ball resided at the Palace, first as Chief of the Maltese Congress and then as Chief Commissioner. During this period a loggia around the drawing room and a balustrade-walk around the outer courtyards were built.

This door is the entrance to the President's residence.
Yes, that's how close we can get to our head of state!

During the British period the Palace was used as the residence of the Governor and the Governor-General of Malta. Following the end of British rule, the Palace became the official residence of the President of Malta.

San Anton is surrounded by gardens containing a variety of trees and flowers from around the world and also a number of sculptures and ornamental ponds. The gardens have been open to the public since 1882.