Birgu – Citta Vittoriosa

Birgu is a medieval harbour town on the east coast of the island. Its origins date back to Roman times but the city we know today has gone through a very chequered history which has made it into the place we know today. The name Vittoriosa (victorious) was bestowed on Birgu after it emerged victorious from the siege of 1565. A walk through its street is like walking through a living history book. Like Mdina it is a town of narrow streets, palaces and churches. However, unlike Mdina, which has retreated behind its bastions dreaming of its past, Birgu is a more vibrant city.

When the Knights of St John moved to Malta in 1530 they took up residence in Birgu so as to be close to their galleys and they stayed there until Valletta was built across the harbour in 1566. Birgu also has close ties with the Royal Navy who used the harbour to berth their ships and built their dockyard in the adjoining town of Bormla.

The photos below are just a very small introduction to the many gems that Birgu has to offer. Indeed, like many of the other historical areas on the island, it will take several posts to do justice to the history, architecture and legends of this old maritime town. Let’s say that today’s post is just a short introduction.

The church of St Lawrence, designed by famous  Maltese Baroque architect Lorenzo Gafa.

 

 

The area behind the church.

 

A balcony in Birgu’s main square.

 

The narrow, winding streets leading off of the main square.

 

The Norman house in Birgu.

View out of the window of the Norman house.

 

Entrance to the Birgu waterfront. The arch and the adjacent building was built during the British period.

The Royal Navy bakery, built in 1840, which now houses the Maritime  Museum.

An Intriguing Door

We were wandering around the picturesque streets of Birgu when this particular door caught my eye. Nothing special really but the sign that was painted on it intrigued me.

I kept wondering who the door keeper was and what was behind that door. Perhaps a passage to a better place?

 

Not likely. It’s just a sign painted by someone with a wry sense of humour and some spare time on his hands .

A very short post, for today. I will take you on a longer tour of this medieval harbour town in my next post.

A Rare Sight – Maltese Freshwater crab

We recently went for a walk in the picturesque valley of Bahrija (pronounced Bahriya). It is one of the unspoilt areas of the island. While crossing a very small stream at the start of our walk we came across a very rare creature – a fresh water crab (Potamon fluvitile lanfrancoi). These crabs are only found in three valleys in Malta and in one valley on the neighbouring island of Gozo. He (or she) got rather upset when it heard us coming and tried to hide under some shoots of fallen bamboo. But I did manage to take a photo of our friend who I’ve decided to name Peeping Tom.

This is the first time in my life that I have seen this elusive creature. Perhaps it is a sign that the freshwater crab population is starting to grow again? I hope so. It would be a pity if this endemic species is wiped out.

Wild Flowers

During spring time this small island is filled with the bloom and fragrance of hundreds of different wild flowers. Here are just a few that are colouring up our landscape before the summer drought.

 

           

Valletta in Sepia (3) – Auberge de Castille

 

The Auberge de Castille was the official residence of the Knights of the Langue of Castille, Leon and Portugal, one of the most powerful of the Order. Auberges were inns or residences for those knights that did not have a house in Malta.

The original auberge was built by Maltese architect Girolamo Cassar in 1574. It was virtually re-built in 1741 and the present imposing structure is attributed to Andrea Belli. This auberge is one of the most ornate buildings in Valletta and it is built on the highest point of the capital city, commanding views of the harbour and of the surrounding towns and countryside.

During British rule it was used as the headquarters of the British Army. Today it houses the Office of the Prime Minister.

Ghajn Tuffieha

Situated on the north-west coast of our island is a little gem of a bay known as Ghajn Tuffieha. This bay is rather secluded and access is via around 200 steps that lead down to the beach from a car park situated at the top of the hill. Another option is to hike down the clay footpaths. In this area there is a predominant layer of clay which supports a very unique type of flora and fauna. The clay hills which enclose this bay are protected areas and are patrolled and monitored by the GAIA Foundation ( a non-profit, non-government organization that specializes in environment management). Various projects are underway to propogate  and conserve endemic species and phase out any others that are not part of the local ecosystem. The entrance to this bay is guarded to this day by a tower built in the 17th century. History is never too far away in Malta.

With its stretch of red-gold sand and crystal clear blue water, this little bay is an idyllic spot both during the summer and in winter. Whilst summer-time finds this beach crowded with sunbathers and swimmers, in the winter it is transformed into an oasis of serene beauty: a place where you can sit down and enjoy the silence while listening to the sea whisper its secrets.

 

 

These photos were taken on a bright and sunny winter’s day last year. They were taken from the footpaths and the only glimpse of the sandy beach is in the very first picture.

Ruby Tuesday - Little Red Door

After a long absence from Ruby Tuesday I decided to participate with this photo of a little red door belonging to an old house. It makes me wonder whether our ancestors were trying to save on wood or whether they were just vertically challenged.

For more Ruby Tuesday participants go here.

St George’s Square

St  George’s square in Valletta (formerly know as the Main Guard) is one of the most important open spaces in the capital city. In the past the square was used for the changing of the guard parade. When this ceremony stopped taking place at the end of British rule in Malta, it was turned into a car park. It was difficult to appreciate the beauty of this square, flanked on one side by the Grand Master’s Palace (which now houses the Maltese Parliament), when it was full of cars. Thankfully, the square has been restored and now serves as an attraction in the heart of our capital city.  If it is splendid by day, by night it is quite magical, with a gorgeous water, music and light show which only serves to enhance the surrounding magnificent architecture.

 

Valletta in Sepia (2) – Abandoned and Derelict

This is a house in Merchants’ Street. It has been abandoned and forgotten as have many beautiful buildings in Valletta. Many of these houses are huge and cost a fortune to maintain. Not many people can afford to live on such a grand scale any more. So most  of these houses, or perhaps I should say mansions, now rot away slowly before our eyes. Shops have been opened on the ground floor of many of them but it seems that the upper storeys are left to fall into disrepair. It is a shame because these stately houses boast of some very beautiful Baroque architecture. My hope is that one day private or public funds will be donated to restore these buildings to their former glory. Meanwhile, I will continue to gaze in awe at their crumbling facades and imagine them as they used to be whilst freezing them forever in this moment in time with my camera.

Valletta in Sepia (1) – St John’s Courtyard

The foundation stone of Valletta was laid in 1566 on what was then known as the Sceberras Peninsula. Surrounded by water on three sides, Valletta was in a key position to defend the entrance to the Grand Harbour. The plan for the new fortified city was drawn up by Grand Master La Vallette, the hero of the great siege of 1565.

Valletta is a gem of Baroque architecture and, as such, lends itself to some spectacular photos of palaces, auberges, fortifications and churches. In colour, Valletta is beautiful, but I think (and this is just my opinion) that it is in sepia that the true beauty of this small city can best be appreciated. At least, when I find myself wandering its streets with a camera in my hand, I find myself shooting in sepia, hoping to do justice to its grandeur and most times finding myself overwhelmed by it.

So I have decided to start a series of posts entitled ‘Valletta in Sepia’ to share some of the gems this city has to offer with you. Today’s shots are of the back courtyard of St John’s Co-cathedral.