Snapshots of … Wied iz-Zurrieq (in Winter)

This rocky inlet located in the south-west of Malta is a favourite fishing spot with many. On calm days, colourful  Maltese boats bob about lazily in the water – a picture of complete serenity.

But in winter, the fury of the sea is not to be trifled with and on windy days, the boats are safely brought to shore to wait for more opportune weather.

One must certainly exercise caution and stay away from the water because, as all those of us brought up here know, it has a very fickle nature.

In the distance, the island of Filfla seems so close that it feels as if you can almost reach out and touch it.

Zurrieq is derived from the Semitic word zoroq which means blue. Quite an appropriate name, would’t you say?

Location: Wied iz-Zurrieq, December 2008 &  January 2010

The Valletta Indoor Market (Is-Suq tal-Belt)

I was saddened to read Sherry Ott’s article about Valletta’s indoor market on We Blog The World. The author’s conclusion that “the (market) culture is dead” may, at face value, appear to be correct. But the author, a traveller who was probably here for not more than a couple of weeks, probably did not have the time to delve a bit deeper into this issue; into why this happened.

In truth, for many years, Valletta did have a thriving market. I remember going to the Valletta market in the mid-70s when the place was a bee-hive of activity. Fishmongers, vegetable sellers, butchers and grocers proudly displayed their wares, advertising them at the top of their lungs. The noise and the intermingled smell of raw fish and meat were over-powering. But is was an organised type of chaos. This was the Valletta market in its heyday – a places of smells, yells and bustling humanity.

In 1982, the government of the day took a decision to relocate the market to Floriana (it always makes sense to transfer a thriving market to a different town and expect loyal customers to follow). The Suq tal-Belt was hastily refurbished and an enterprise called ‘Ixtri Malti"’ (Purchase Maltese Products) was born. The project was doomed from the start, especially since most of the items on sale would have felt right at home in Soviet Russia, Mao’s China or Gaddafi’s Libya. One by one, the shops closed down and the building’s gates were padlocked for a number of years.

In the late 80s the market returned to Valletta and, although no longer quite as busy as it used to be, started to re-attract customers. Unfortunately, the fact that people had got used to shopping elsewhere, coupled with the dwindling and ageing population of Valletta, ensured that its death  knell had been rung.

Today, it is a mere shadow of what it used to me. It feels like one of those abandoned town in the American Wild West – the signs are still hanging, the infrastructure is in place, but the only footsteps that echo down the empty hallways are the ghostly echoes of times past.

What about its future? There is talk of turning it into a museum of contemporary art or into an arts and crafts market. Both ideas could work, given the necessary financing and restooration that needs to take place. Personally, I would like this building to be returned to its roots. It could so easily be a thriving place once again like Firenze’s Mercato Centrale.   Market stalls, craft booths, a couple of florists, maybe a few specialty stores and small outlets selling street food. I am sure it would not take that much effort to breathe some life into the place. As long as it is not a half-hearted effort and is imaginatively done, it will work.

Is-Suq tal-Belt (Valletta Indoor Market), Merchants’ Street, Valletta

November 2012

Snapshots of … Bahrija Valley

Bahrija Valley is an unspoilt natural area situated beneath the quiet village of Bahrija (which means moth). The place makes for a very pleasant walk, especially in Spring, and it one of the few places in Malta where you may catch a glimpse of the elusive freshwater crab. The valley itself has a healthy population of wild plants  and flowers and also stretches of farming land.

At its far end the valley starts to rise towards the cliffs which plunge down to the sea beneath.

This is a truly wonderful place for a walk in peaceful surroundings.

In Praise Of An Island

I have often wondered what a visitor from New York would think of Malta. Why New York, you might ask? Well, because for many Maltese, NY is the quintessential American city: it is fast, crowded, and vibrant and as different from Malta as the sun is from the moon. So when I came across Michael Jurick’s article Magnificent Malta, posted on his blog in August 2012, I started to read it with some trepidation. But this renowned NY-based photographer had nothing but praise to shower on Malta and Gozo. Sometimes it is like a breath of fresh air to see these islands through the eyes of an outsider. Because, let’s face it, living here and seeing the same buildings and the same scenery day in, day out tends to make most people a bit jaded – myself included. But Michael Jurick’s stunning captures of the little ordinary things that we walk past so casually every day are a testimony that these islands are still able to enchant and enthrall.

Jurick’s article attracted comments from over 300 readers and went viral soon after it was published. I stumbled across it a few days ago, quite by chance, but I am so glad that I did. Malta, of course, is not without its faults. I live here and I could point out many. Life here is what it is. There are times when it can get strangely overwhelming to exist within such small boundaries. But there is one thing that I do know: that wherever this life may take me and wherever I will roam, my heart will forever be tied to the sun-drenched shores of this little land.

Snapshots of … Strait Street

Strait Street, the narrowest street in Valletta, flanked on either side by tall buildings, a street with a shady reputation. In former times it was the favourite haunt of soldiers, sailors and candlestick makers who sought a night of fun and games with the bar maids and dancers of the many establishments that thrived in this street.

The British nicknamed it ‘The Gut’, which is a good indication of its shady character. Drunken fights, prostitution, dance halls and bordellos were a common sight along this infamous street. It was once a noisy, bustling place. Today, the only sounds you will hear are the echoes of your own footsteps and, perhaps, the sigh of a disappointed ghost or two because the place is just a shadow of its former self, decaying slowly, and yet, frozen in time.

Rehabilitation of some buildings has started in the last couple of years and a number of restaurants and bistros have opened for business in what is still one of the most famous streets in Valletta.

Location: Strait Street (Strada Stretta), Valletta

November 2012

Badass Burgers – Probably the Best Burgers in Malta

I had been hearing rave reviews about Badass Cafe and their  burgers for almost a year. My burger expectations are always high and, more often than not, I have been disappointed with over-cooked meat that tastes like cardboard that many local restaurants tend to serve up. But this time, I was not let down. The burgers were moist, juicy and tasted just right. The accompanying fries were crispy and very tasty. Unfortunately, I was too busy eating my Aunt Elsie burger to remember to take any photos. This burger came with a Greek twist with a topping of tomatoes, black olives and feta cheese. Another plus is that the staff is friendly and efficient.  I can safely say that I have finally found my favourite burger restaurant on the island. I think that I am going to get addicted.

Badass Café

46 Old Theatre Street

Valletta

Opening Times

Mon - Thur: 18:00 - 23:00
Fri - Sun: 12:00 - 00:00

Phone: 2122 8347

This is not a paid review and all opinions expressed are my own.

Snapshots of … The Courtyards at the Grand Master’s Palace

The Grand Master’s Palace was built in 1571. It was designed by Girolamo Cassar and is built around two courtyards. The smaller courtyard is known as Prince Alfred’s Courtyard and was so named to commemorate the visit of Prince Alfred in 1851. Adorning this courtyard is Pinto’s Clock which was created in 1745.

The other, larger courtyard is dominated by a bronze statue of the god Neptune and it is commonly called Neptune’s Courtyard.

Location: The Grand Master’s Palace Courtyards, St George’s Square, Valletta

November 2012