Lethal Beauty–The Oleander

The heat is intense and summer is reaching its peak.  The ground is parched and the patches of dry earth seem like miniature deserts surrounding our towns and villages. On the horizon, the blue ribbon that is the sea meets the expanse of the sky in a hazy embrace. It seems like colour has taken flight to cooler climes. Yet amidst all the dreariness, the oleanders bloom in pretty hues. Like confetti at a summer wedding their flowers are plentiful and alleviate the monotony of brown caked earth.

One of my favourite ‘oleander walks’ is across this bridge that used to be the only link between the towns of Rabat and Mtarfa. Oleander bushes are planted on both sides of the bridge and, from June to September, when crossing this bridge at certain times of the day it feels as if the air is suffused with a magical, pink light. Although oleander blooms come in a variety of colours (including red) the predominant colours, both on this bridge and along various roads all over the island, are dark and light pink and white.

Oleander plants are very hardy and can withstand long periods of drought (hence they are perfect for our long, dry summers). Being perennials, the bushes grow bigger every year and in many cases they are trimmed down to prevent them from over-growing. The flowers are very pretty, the leaves long and of a vibrant dark green shade.  Yet this beautiful plant is known to be highly toxic. In fact one of its leaves can be lethal if ingested by a child or small animal. Thankfully I have never heard of anyone who had the not-so-bright idea to eat the leaves. However, I do remember that, as young kids, one of our favourite pastimes was to cut off a few oleander leaves, mash them up,add a variety of other wild plants together with some soil and water to make ‘cakes’. It’s a good thing that the disgusting appearance of our early attempts at baking put us off from trying to take a nibble or I might not be here today to write this story.

Here’s hoping that your summers are not too harsh and that pretty blooms cheer you along your way.

Spreading The Word – Malta’s First Frock Swap

This is just a short post to help Abby (aka The Fish In Malta) spread the word about a Frock Swap she is organising this coming Saturday (July 30th). Proceeds from the Frock Swap will go towards Noah’s Ark Animal Sanctuary. You may find more information about the swap on the blog Fish Frock Swap.

Unfortunately, there is a problem with abandoned animals on the island and Noah’s Ark Animal Sanctuary picks up stray dogs and cats and tries to find good homes for them. In the meantime, the animals are fed and given the necessary veterinary care and this, of course, requires funds.

So if you live in Malta, love animals and would like to participate in the  Frock Swap please visit this link.

Kitten

Photographed at

San Anton Palace Gardens

September 2009

Wayside Chapels: Our Lady of Carmel at Fawwara

I have, of course, already talked about Fawwara, the little hamlet beneath the cliffs that seems to be suspended in time. Today I want to share with you the tiny gem of a chapel dedicated to Our Lady Of Carmel that commands one of the most breath-taking views on the island. Surrounded by fields, plunging cliffs and cornflower-blue sea, the silence is almost deafening, the peace and tranquility a balm to the soul. The vista from the parapet stretches out for miles and seems to draw the eyes to the islet of Filfla, rising majestically out of the water.

The chapel was built in 1616 with funds provided by Girolama  Ciantar. It is said that at the time a severe drought hit the island  and a spring of fresh water, that fed the fields in the vicinity and which were owned by Girolama’s family, dried up with the consequence that the family was about to lose its crops. Girolama vowed that if the water started to flow again she would build a church on the spot. The lady prayed and the water did flow. Girolama Ciantar kept her promise and bequeathed her fields to the Brotherhood of Our Lady of Charity of St Paul’s Church Valletta. In 1669 the church was rebuilt by the brotherhood and subsequently restored in 1756. The feast of Our Lady of Carmel will be celebrated at the small chapel in Fawwara this coming Sunday.

Sometimes I feel as if I could go on and on writing about the magic of this place. It has captured my imagination to such an extent that I feel that, like the fabled Avalon, it does not belong to this world and that once we leave, the mists drift down and hide it away until it is time for another visit; that in the meantime everything will remain as it has for centuries until we venture again on the secret road that will lead us through the mists and to the reality that is on the other side.

Of course, the road is not really secret and no mists exist unless rain has fallen but I do believe that what we find when we get there depends on what we are looking for.

Silence. Solitude. Legends. Prayers. Miracles. Fantasy. In this place, so far from the crowds and from modern-day civilization, I believe that the impossible can, and does, happen.

This place is so unique that my photos alone cannot do it justice. Please visit this link at Malta In 360 . I promise you the few extra minutes you spend there will be worth it.

Photographed at Fawwara, April 2011

Historical information adapted from: A Hundred Wayside Chapels of Malta & Gozo by Kilin.

Ruby Tuesday: Of Flowers And Rubble Walls

Sometimes it happens that I come across a scene that looks perfect to my eyes – the colours and the textures working together to create an imprint in my mind; and since I want to record that imprint forever, out comes my camera and I snap a shot. It’s a moment in late spring and all three plants in the photo are in bloom: to the left - a cactus plant that will give us prickly pear fruits in September (you can read more about prickly pears here); to the right -  a red oleander and, at the bottom of the photo, a caper bush (which I talked about in my post When The Capers Bloom), all growing alongside a rubble wall. I like to call rubble walls ‘the stone hedges of Malta’. Rubble walls serve as retaining and boundary walls and are built without the use of cement or mortar. It takes skillful builders to ensure that the walls remain erect just by placing stones in such a way that they lock and stay in place.

Photographed at Delimara

The pop of red from the oleander provides the perfect hue for this week’s Ruby Tuesday. Other Ruby Tuesday posts may be viewed at Work Of The Poet.

The Old Naval Bakery

The Naval Bakery in Birgu (Vittoriosa) was built by the British in 1845 by British architect and engineer William Scamp on the site of an old covered slipway previously used by the Knights of St John for their fleet. The bakery was an important victualling centre for the Royal Navy’s Mediterranean fleet. After WW2 the building was converted into offices and stores and also housed the Admiralty Constabulary.

In 1992 the Old Naval Bakery was converted into the Malta Maritime Museum. The exhibits at the Maritime Museum chart the sea-faring history of this island and its close relationship with the sea that surrounds us. Relics on exhibit date from ancient times with a vast collection of anchors from the Roam period on display. Other items in the museum include books, cannons, models of ships, navigation instruments, weapons and uniforms with large sections dedicated to the Navy of the Order of St John and the Royal Navy. Perhaps the most famous item on display is the figurehead of HMS Hibernia a ship of the line, launched at Plymouth dockyard in 1804.

She was the flagship of the British Mediterranean fleet from 1816 to 1855 when she became the flagship for the Royal  Navy base in Malta and stationed in Grand Harbour. The ship was sold in 1902 and eventually dismantled. The figurehead was in Portsmouth for several years and then restored and returned to Malta in 1994.

Malta Maritime Museum

Ex-Naval Bakery

Birgu

Ruby Tuesday: Of Saints And Doorways

An old house in the ancient town of Rabat. Above the red doorway, an artist’s rendition of the apostle Paul, the paint flaking, the stonework crumbling.

I have talked about this area in Rabat, known as Hal-Bajjada here. The apostle Paul was shipwrecked in Malta on his way to Rome. This episode is recorded in Acts 27 and 28. A strong local tradition suggests that Paul lived in a cave underneath what is now the  parish church of Rabat. The town has a strong Pauline tradition and statues like the one above are quite a common adornment on the facades of older houses.  I thought that the saint’s red mantle would make a good contribution for this week’s Ruby  Tuesday.

More Ruby Tuesday entries here

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Maltese Traditions (2): L-Imnarja

The feast of Mnarja (pronounced imnarya) held annually on June 29 traditionally celebrates the martyrdom of saints Peter and Paul. However, this feast has its roots in antiquity, to the time when Malta formed part of the Roman Empire and the feast of Luminaria was celebrated around this time. This short night in early summer was celebrated by lighting torches and bonfires. Gradually the feast became Christianised and continued to be celebrated, especially by farmers, since in essence it is a type of harvest festival. Mnarja is celebrated in Buskett, a wooded area on the outskirts of the town of Rabat. When the Knights ruled Malta they built a castle in Buskett (Verdala Palace) and used it as a summer residence and hunting lodge.

The Maltese were not allowed to enter or hunt in the wooded grounds of the castle except on one day of the year: June 29. During British rule, governor William Reid introduced an agricultural show which is held to this day. The celebration of  Mnarja starts on the evening  prior to the feast with traditional singing, known as ghana (pnounced aana), and the cooking of food in Buskett. The dishes most commonly associated with Mnarja are rabbit stew and pork cooked on a spit, followed by imqaret (a concoction of dates enclosed in dough and deep fried) for dessert. Nowadays, foreign influence can be seen in the stalls selling burgers and fries, ice-cream cones and candy floss (or cotton candy for my American readers ).

On the day of the feast, produce and livestock participating in the agricultural show are judged and prizes awarded.

The religious aspect of the feast is celebrated at the Cathedral of St Paul in Mdina. In the past, it was considered good luck for a husband to take his newly-wed wife to Buskett for Mnarja during their first year of marriage. This tradition has long since died out.

The atmosphere at  Buskett has naturally changed over the years. The amount of animals on show keeps decreasing year by year as less and less people are earning their livelihood by farming and also because many of our open spaces are dwindling as permits continue to be granted to so called ‘entrepreneurs’ who persist in building flats and houses that seem to take ages to sell. With respect to Buskett itself, environmentalists complain that the crowds that flock to the area do not show enough respect to their surroundings since they trample and uproot vegetation in the whole area including the surrounding valley known as Wied il-Luq.

It has been many years since I ventured to Buskett for this feast but, this year two things made me decide to go. The first is this blog since I felt that I should introduce my readers to some local traditions and it would also be a good photo-taking opportunity for me. Secondly, now that my son is 5 years old, I thought he might enjoy an outing that would include animals together with traditions that date back thousands of years. Unfortunately we arrived too late in the day to see the livestock since their owners take them back home before the day heats up too much but we were able to enjoy the smaller animals like rabbits, geese, ducks, hens and other birds as these are kept in a shaded area.

 

In a country where wooded areas are very scarce, Buskett is definitely a treasure that needs to be preserved for future generations to enjoy. Although today I was more intent on capturing some shots of the Mnarja festival, I will return in future to take more photos of this lovely place – when there are no crowds and I can enjoy the buzzing bees and the cicadas and watch the lizards and geckos lap up the sun; when peace and tranquility reign, I promise I will be back.

Triton Fountain and The End Of An Era

Triton Fountain at Sunset

This is Triton Fountain – currently situated at the main bus terminus just outside the walls of Valletta. It is a sculpture in bronze by Maltese sculptor Vincent Apap. Erected in 1959, it soon became a much-loved landmark. Indeed its wide marble basin has always been a favourite meeting place with local teenagers. On warm summer evenings the sound of its splashing water has accompanied many a hasty teen-age kiss and its circular basin has provided the perfect platform for  many private dramas and outbursts of youthful angst.

Triton Fountain at Sunset

Originally, the bowl held up by the tritons was much larger and the central column (which you can just  make out in the photos) did not exist. However, after the surface of the bowl was controversially used as a performance stage in the late 1970s, the structure was damaged. For many years it was in disrepair but it still continued to be a popular meeting place. It was repaired  in the late 1980s (when the smaller bowl and central column were included) and the cheerful sound of its jets of water continued to delight new  generations.

Triton Fountain at Sunset

Triton Fountain is now back on everyone’s lips. The entrance to our capital city is being given a much needed face-lift. The plans were drawn by world-renowned architect Renzo Piano. Unfortunately, Piano’s plans include the removal of the fountain from its current location to another location 50 metres away where it will, most likely, no longer function as a fountain. This plan has not really gone done well with the general population since many feel that the fountain has earned its place at the entrance to Valletta not only because of its artistic value but because of the affectionate hold it has on the national psyche. Those, like me, who have gown up with this landmark, have met countless friends at its base and who have have sat on its warm stones on many lazy summer nights, are loathe to see it go. But the powers-that-be have spoken and Piano’s plans  have won over national nostalgia and Apap’s artistry.

Triton Fountain at Night

Ruby Tuesday: Another Post Box

Mail boxes are red here and the older ones bear the insignia of  the British monarch who was on the throne when the mail box was put up. You may read more about this in my post  Red and  Regal. This particular post box bears the insignia of King Edward VII. Edward VII was king between 1901 and 1910, which makes this post box over 100 years old.

I never thought post boxes could be fascinating but these older ones, bearing the royal cyphers, are very intriguing. I must admit that it has become a bit of an obsession to hunt out the very old post boxes and snap some shots. It is a great way of getting back in touch with our past. In reality a post box is just an everyday object which serves an important function but just stop and think of all the letters and messages that have been mailed inside this box. Letters of hope, of love, of encouragement. Letters from loved ones in foreign lands. Happy messages, sad messages. So many secrets in one little  post box.

Photographed in

Main Gate Street

Birgu

This is my entry for this week’s Ruby Tuesday. For more Ruby Tuesday posts visit Mary at Work Of The Poet.

Ruby Tuesday: Red Balconies in Birgu

After a long absence I am back participating in Ruby Tuesday. I hope that by now I have accumulated enough images with red in them to be able to link up to this fun meme on a weekly basis.

For this week’s entry I have chosen a photo of some red balconies in the medieval maritime city* of Birgu (aka Vittoriosa). Balconies, of course, are the quintessential adornments of most of the older houses in the Mediterranean and can be covered or uncovered and made of wood or stone. Covered wooden balconies, like the ones in the photo, are perfect for a spot of eavesdropping, if you are so inclined, and also provide an ideal perch above the street from where you can watch the daily neighborhood drama being enacted. I think that the current fad of painting local balconies in bold reds, greens and blues contrasts well with the honey-coloured limestone that makes up Maltese houses.

Photographed in

Main Gate Street

Birgu

Like any medieval town or village in Malta, Birgu is made up of narrow winding streets flanked on each side by buildings which are 2 to 3 storeys high. Being a harbor town, Birgu has a long history of maritime, mercantile and military activities. Following the heavy bombardment it sustained during WW2, Birgu experienced a sharp decline in its population (which was almost halved when compared to pre-war years). For a large number of years, many of the remaining buildings went in decline and the population continued to dwindle. In the past decade the government, together with a number of private entrepreneurs, started to invest in the area and many of the older buildings are being renovated and restored. A Yacht Marina was built and the buildings and palaces on the waterfront at St Lawrence Wharf have been leased to house restaurants and cafeterias.

I have already written about Birgu another time and you  may read the post here. New readers may also read more about the chequered history of this town at the official portal of the Birgu Local Council.

Major attractions in Birgu include Fort St Angelo, the Maritime Museum (housed in the former Royal Navy Bakery), the church of St Lawrence, the Inquisitor’s Palace, the Couvre Port and the extensive fortifications (to name just a few).

*Please note that the word city here in Malta is used very loosely and does not refer to modern metropolises such as London or New York. In fact, some of our ‘cities’ (like Mdina) are inhabited by not more than 500 people.

For more posts with pops of red, visit Mary at Work of the Poet.