WELCOME

This blog is dedicated to Malta - my island home. My aim is not to bore you with history but to share my thoughts and a few facts together with a photo or two. For a more in -depth background of the island please go here. The purpose of this blog is not to point out the short-comings of the island. There are plenty that do that already. My wish is to show you the beauty of an island at the cross roads of the Mediterranean, a melting pot of history; a place where fact and fiction are sometimes fused to create unique myths and legends; a country that has been conquered so many times that our culture is a mish mesh of the lands that surround us and of lands far away. I confess that my greatest desire is to make you fall in love with this tiny enchanting island.

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Thursday, 22 March 2012

Wildflowers Of Malta – Hoary Stocks

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This wildflower (known in Maltese as Gizi) is not endemic to the Maltese islands. It was introduced in the last 500 years and may be found sporadically around the island. Its Latin name is Matthiola incana and it is of the  mustard cress family. Hoary stocks flower between March and May.

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I found this particular plant in a most unusual place – underneath the forbidding walls of Fort St Elmo in Valletta. It was all but hidden in the rest of the vegetation but I did not miss its small, vibrant purple flowers peeping out from amongst the rest of the foliage along the path.

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Hoary Stocks

Photographed in Valletta

March 2012

I am indebted for all information regarding wild flowers and plants of Malta to the excellent and informative website Malta Wild Plants.

Thursday, 15 March 2012

The Staircase At Verdala Palace

Verdala Palace is the official summer and holiday residence of the President of Malta. It is not normally open to the public but every couple of years or so an open weekend is held. Naturally, thousands of people flock to this historic place. It has been a while since we had the opportunity to visit so these photos are from my archives. I had written a post about the palace and about the Blue Lady that is said to haunt it here. Today I am going to focus on one of the palace’s most unique and beautiful features: its main staircase.

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The staircase is elliptical and was designed by Maltese architect Girolamo Cassar, who was also responsible for a number of other magnificent buildings. It is said, that to give it its unique design, no two stones are the exact same size. This staircase is a prime example of Baroque architecture  - a style that was purposefully designed to be both grandiose and awe-inspiring. I am sure that this staircase does not disappoint in either respect.

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For a view of the castle in 360 go here.

Verdala Palace

Buskett

Wednesday, 7 March 2012

X Miles To Nowhere (or Defaced Milestones)

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Many visitors to these islands are intrigued when they see these defaced milestones. Some may wonder why these milestones have been defaced. It was not due to a thoughtless act of vandalism. These milestones were defaced during the last World War. During the worst of the war it was thought that an Axis invasion was imminent, so all existing milestones were defaced in the hope that any potential invaders would be confused as to their whereabouts. In some cases, even the name of the town was removed from the stone. Needless to say, in this day and age, such a precaution would be futile. These milestones still stand, serving as a reminder of a very different way of life.

Photographed at Fawwara

April 2011

Thursday, 1 March 2012

They Came, They Conquered And They Called Me Medina

As the years passed the empire weakened and was split in two. For a while this island fell under the Eastern Roman Emperor at Byzantium. But trouble was brewing in the east. The Arabs were thirsty for land and conquest. Fuelled by their new faith, they spread across the Mediterranean like a swarm of locusts in a field of wheat. There were not many places that put up a fight. By 870AD Malta had a new overlord and, as for me, I became who I am today.  The Arabs decreased my size, dug a moat around me and built high walls for protection.

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And they renamed me Medina. The narrow, winding streets that you see today have not changed much from that day to this but life changed drastically during those years. The Arabs brought with them a new culture, a new religion. Slowly, but surely, the native people took up these new traditions. Some did it of their own free will, others under duress. From my perch on these lofty bastions I surveyed the land below me and all the surrounding sea but, as yet, there was no power strong enough in the Mediterranean to overthrow the Hakem, the ruler of the island.

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But something in my bones told me that the status quo would not last forever. If I had learnt one thing from my almost 2000 year existence it was that this sea is always in turmoil. As one power waned, another would rise up in its shadow. I knew that the winds of change would soon start to blow again and my story would unfold whichever way the fates dictated. All I could do was wait.

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Thursday, 16 February 2012

An American Windmill In Malta

There is probably not very much that the USA and  Malta have in common. But there is one structure that is a common feature in the rural landscapes of both countries. It is the humble windmill, or to use a more correct term, wind pump. These mills were used by farmers to pump water from deep under-ground to irrigate their fields. Some of these wind pumps are still in use although, sadly, many of them have been neglected and have fallen into a state of disrepair. I grew up with one of these windmills right opposite our house and I remember many a windy night that I fell asleep to the clanking sound of its steel frame. As a child I would watch the giant blades turning in the wind with a sense of awe. I hope that at least some of these American imports will be maintained for future generations to enjoy.

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Photographed at

Chadwick Lakes

January 2012

Thursday, 9 February 2012

Our Distant Past – Ghar Dalam

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Ghar (the gh is silent) Dalam which literally translates to Cave of Darkness is one of the most important prehistoric archeological sites in Malta. The cave is about 144 metres deep but only the first 50 metres are accessible to visitors. In this cave, which is found on the outskirts of Birzebbuga, archeologists discovered the earliest evidence of human settlement on the islands. The remains found here date back 7400 years.

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This column shows the different layers that were excavated

Excavations have revealed that the floor of the cave is made up of 5 different layers. In the lowest layers large quantities of fossilised tusks, teeth and bones were found. These remains were found to belong to species which are now extinct such as the dwarf elephant and dwarf hippopotamus. Other remains in subsequent layers were from red deer, brown bear, wolf, fox and giant swan. These animals are no longer found on the island and scientists believe that this proves that Malta once formed part of a land bridge connected to the European mainland. It is thought that after the last Ice Age the rising sea levels trapped the animals here and they slowly died out from lack of food once  Malta became an island.  Pottery shards and other human artifacts were retrieved from the uppermost layer of the cave.

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Ghar Dalam is thought to have been formed by an underground river which, over time, wore away the soft limestone. The cave also has a number of stalactites and stalagmites. During WW2 it was used as an air raid shelter.

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Prior to entering the cave there is a museum which houses hundreds of bone fragments from the animals mentioned above. There is also an explanation of the geological activity that took place in the Mediterranean following the last Ice Age.

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For more detailed information about this fascinating site visit Heritage Malta.

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Ghar Dalam Cave & Museum

Zejtun Road

Birzebbuga

Thursday, 2 February 2012

Wildflowers Of Malta – Giant Fennel

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Giant fennel (Ferula communis) is not a true fennel but is so named because it looks very similar to fennel. Giant fennel grows all over the Mediterranean, especially in the more arid areas. Here in Malta it is very common to see giant fennel growing on cliff tops – its bright yellow flowers providing a vivid contrast to the blue of the surrounding sea.

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The plant flowers between March and early May after which seeds form on the umbels (the umbrella-like flowers). This plant is a perennial and easily grows to heights of 2.5 metres.

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The sight of flowering giant fennel is a sure sign that  spring is on its way. The plant has anti-coagulant properties and can be toxic if ingested in large quantities or over long periods of time. In antiquity it was known as narthex and it is said to be the plant used by Prometheus to steal fire from heaven to give to mankind.

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Photographed at

Dingli Cliffs, March 2010

and

Fawwara, April 2011

Thursday, 26 January 2012

Golden Bay On A Stormy Winter’s Day

Few things are more majestic than the untamed power of stormy seas.

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Few things are more frightening than the unleashed fury of powerful waves.

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In summer this bay is a favourite bathing spot, its sandy shore lined with gaudy umbrellas and hundreds of sweltering bodies. Its waters are blue, welcoming and serene.

In winter it is almost a hostile place, the water turns a dark grey, the waves crash on the shore and the wind roars.

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A totally different scene. It is deserted, desolate almost, unwelcoming and cold. But this  is how I love it best. Revealing its wild beauty to me alone.

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Photographed at Golden Bay

February 2009

This bay, situated on the North-west coast of Malta is especially susceptible to the mighty NW wind, known in Maltese as Majjistral (the j’s sound like y’s). This pretty bay is known for its underground currents and caution is advised when swimming here even during the summer months.

Thursday, 19 January 2012

Maltese Boats

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Traditional Maltese boats are colourful and on, sunny days, cast pretty reflections in the water. The local fishermen have different names for the boats, depending on their type and size. Personally I cannot tell a luzzu from a frejgatina or a dghajsa, but whatever their name, I find them fascinating. It is thought that the design of some of these boats dates back to Phoenician times, the only exception being that these days motors are use instead of sails.

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Nowadays these boats are not as plentiful as they used to be. It takes a lot of time and effort to keep the colours fresh and vibrant and the number of people who make a living just by fishing dwindles every year. I do hope though that, for generations to come, these boats will continue to bob gently on the sparkling blue waters of our harbours and bays.

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I cannot believe it has been well over a month since I posted here but, in my defence, we were away on vacation for over three weeks and then I had to deal with the aftermath of a long vacation – unpacking, laundry …. Anyway, I hope you enjoyed my first post for the year.

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Photographed at

Marsaxlokk Harbour

February 2011

The Azure Window: the end of an icon

The Azure Window was a natural limestone arch that rose majestically out of the blue Mediterranean sea to a height of 28 metres (92 fee...