Snapshots of an Island

Wildflowers Of Malta – Giant Fennel

2012-02-02T22:30:00.001+01:00

Giant fennel (Ferula communis) is not a true fennel but is so named because it looks very similar to fennel. Giant fennel grows all over the Mediterranean, especially in the more arid areas. Here in Malta it is very common to see giant fennel growing on cliff tops – its bright yellow flowers providing a vivid contrast to the blue of the surrounding sea.

The plant flowers between March and early May after which seeds form on the umbels (the umbrella-like flowers). This plant is a perennial and easily grows to heights of 2.5 metres.

The sight of flowering giant fennel is a sure sign that spring is on its way. The plant has anti-coagulant properties and can be toxic if ingested in large quantities or over long periods of time. In antiquity it was known as narthex and it is said to be the plant used by Prometheus to steal fire from heaven to give to mankind.

Photographed at

Dingli Cliffs, March 2010

and

Fawwara, April 2011

Golden Bay On A Stormy Winter’s Day

2012-01-26T19:59:00.000+01:00

Few things are more majestic than the untamed power of stormy seas.

Few things are more frightening than the unleashed fury of powerful waves.

In summer this bay is a favourite bathing spot, its sandy shore lined with gaudy umbrellas and hundreds of sweltering bodies. Its waters are blue, welcoming and serene.

In winter it is almost a hostile place, the water turns a dark grey, the waves crash on the shore and the wind roars.

A totally different scene. It is deserted, desolate almost, unwelcoming and cold. But this is how I love it best. Revealing its wild beauty to me alone.

Photographed at Golden Bay

February 2009

This bay, situated on the North-west coast of Malta is especially susceptible to the mighty NW wind, known in Maltese as Majjistral (the j’s sound like y’s). This pretty bay is known for its underground currents and caution is advised when swimming here even during the summer months.

Maltese Boats

2012-01-19T22:10:00.001+01:00

Traditional Maltese boats are colourful and on, sunny days, cast pretty reflections in the water. The local fishermen have different names for the boats, depending on their type and size. Personally I cannot tell a luzzu from a frejgatina or a dghajsa, but whatever their name, I find them fascinating. It is thought that the design of some of these boats dates back to Phoenician times, the only exception being that these days motors are use instead of sails.

Nowadays these boats are not as plentiful as they used to be. It takes a lot of time and effort to keep the colours fresh and vibrant and the number of people who make a living just by fishing dwindles every year. I do hope though that, for generations to come, these boats will continue to bob gently on the sparkling blue waters of our harbours and bays.

I cannot believe it has been well over a month since I posted here but, in my defence, we were away on vacation for over three weeks and then I had to deal with the aftermath of a long vacation – unpacking, laundry …. Anyway, I hope you enjoyed my first post for the year.

Photographed at

Marsaxlokk Harbour

February 2011

What’s On In Malta In December

2011-12-02T23:04:00.001+01:00

I have been feeling the need to change things a little bit around here. I do not want this blog to just end up being a historical archive. As a result, at the beginning of every month, I will pick a few events taking place here in Malta that I think will be of interest to those that live here or plan to visit in the coming weeks.

December 3rd: Frock Swap

A frock swap in aid of The Island Sanctuary will take place to coincide with the official opening of SoapCafé. Details of the Frock Swap may be found here. SoapCafé produce totally natural and virtually edible beauty products for all ages and skin types. The official programme of this event may be found here.

Soap Café

46 St Mary Street

Sliema

Dec 4th: Malta Artisans Market

If you are looking for a unique hand made gift to give to your loved ones this Christmas (or if you would like to indulge in a little something for yourselves) an Artisans Market is taking place at the Grand Ballroom of the Phoenicia Hotel. There will be 60 stalls selling arts, crafts and artisan food products.

The Phoenicia Hotel

The Mall

Floriana

December 2011 – April 2012: Metal Magic

This exhibition which was inaugurated on 7th November 2011 will continue until the end of April 2012. The Spanish treasure from the Khalili collections consists of works of art of Spanish damascene metal. The preservation of the art of damascening in Spain was almost entirely due to the efforts of a single family: the Zuloagas. A number of the works of art on display were created by Placido Zuloaga, the supreme artisan of the family. A number of artefacts from Malta’s National Collection will also be on exhibit.

December 1st – December 18th: The MFCC Christmas Park

This year the Malta Fairs and Convention Centre in Ta’ Qali has brought to Malta a unique Christmas crib made from 8 tons of salt from the Patraia Soprana mine in Italkali near Palermo (Sicily). The crib has an area of 60 square metres and is adorned with terracotta figures.

Other attractions include a chocolate village, a 17 metre high Christmas tree, a light show and a Christmas shopping mall.

December 4th-December 25th: Live Crib

From 04/12 to 25/12 the streets of the village of Lija will come alive as about 100 locals re-create the traditional nativity scenes.

December 22nd: Winter Solstice

Heritage Malta is again inviting members of the public to attend a guided tour of Mnajdra Temples and to participate in the winter solstice. This is the perfect opportunity to learn more about our prehistory and the ancient fertility cult practiced by the first inhabitants of these islands. The Mnajdra temples are situated in a unique location close to the edge of cliffs that rise sharply out of the sea. On the day of the solstice, due to the special alignment of the temple, the first rays of the rising sun will fall on a megalith to the right of the central doorway of the main temple. Whether this alignment is coincidental or planned is still a matter of debate although most archaeologists think that it was the latter.

The number of tickets for this event, which starts at 6am, are limited so as to enhance the experience of all those that attend.

Image via The Times of Malta

Mnajdra Temple Complex

Qrendi

December 26th-January 8th: Ali Baba-A Christmas Panto

FM Productions present Ali Baba at the Manoel Theatre in Valletta. Tickets may be booked here.

December 22nd-January 8th: The Princess and the Pea-A Christmas Panto

MADC present The Princess and the Pea at the MFCC theatre in Ta’ Qali. Directed by Nanette Brimmer, the part of the Dame will be played by Alan Montanaro. Tickets for this production may be booked here.

The Christmas pantomime is one of the most well-established events of the local Christmas season and is enjoyed by young and old alike.

For more events taking place during December go to my What’s On tab at the top of this page.

Wildflowers of Malta: Asphodel

2011-11-24T22:16:00.001+01:00

Asphodel (Asphodelus aestivus) known in Maltese as berwieq is a lily-like plant with very small roots. It is a common sight on cliff tops and in areas of garigue. In fact the plant prefers rocky areas with very little soil. The plants grow to a height of between 50 and 150cm and flower between January and April. The flowers are white with reddish-brown vertical stripes. This plant is native to Africa and most of the Mediterranean coasts. The name asphodel is derived from Greek. Although no longer employed in modern medicine, asphodel was used by the Greeks and the Romans as a diuretic, antispasmodic and as a treatment for sun burns. Asphodel tubers are highly resistant to fire.

In Greek legend, asphodel is closely associated with the dead and Persephone is often depicted wearing a garland of asphodel flowers. Asphodel was also planted on graves and the Asphodel Meadows was thought to be the place where the souls of those who had done an equal measure of good and evil in their lives rested.

It will soon be time for these tenacious perennials to bloom on rocky outcrops and on cliffs and areas with shallow pockets of soil. Asphodel is just one of the many pretty blooms that flower and thrive during our short winters. It is a plant perfectly adapted to our Mediterranean climate. As soon as the heat becomes intense, the plant and flowers wither and die, but under ground, the tuber will live on until the autumn rains cause it to sprout once more.

St Paul’s Catacombs–An Underground Necropolis

2011-11-17T22:24:00.001+01:00

I recently re-visited the catacombs of St Paul. The last time I was in this underground necropolis I was just a child. Visiting the place as an adult felt vastly different. The tombs are empty but I could not help thinking about the lives of the people who had lain here. It’s easy to become morbid in a place like this so let’s move on to the historical facts.

The catacombs of St Paul are situated in the town of Rabat. In the past, when Melite (modern day Mdina) was much larger, this area would have been just outside the gates of the city. The catacombs in Malta were used solely for burial purposes since there is no record of any type of religious persecution during this era. These catacombs were the last resting place of Christians, pagans and Jews. St Paul’s catacombs were used up to the 4th century AD. The complex covers an area of 2000 square metres. One enters the catacombs by going down a flight of steep steps which lead into a main hall. This hall was used for the various activities associated with funerary rites.Two reclining tables, known as agape tables, were probably used for commemorative meals.

It is thought that in the 13th century this hall may have served as a shrine during the re-Christianising of the island. Doorways in the main hall lead to various passages, carved out from the limestone, which are lined with a numerous array of tombs.

Some of the tombs were closed up with blocking stones, some of which had carvings on them. This one is decorated with surgical tools of the time which suggests that it is the burial place of a surgeon and his family or, possibly, a group of surgeons.

Perhaps the most disturbing aspect of these catacombs is the large number of tombs known as ‘luculus tombs’. These small tombs were the final resting place of children and babies and the large number that can be seen hewn in the rock is a poignant reminder of the high infant mortality rate that existed at the time.

In the past these catacombs were lit by oil lamps that were placed in small nooks in the passage-way walls. Vents in the ceiling provided fresh air and some light during the daylight.

At present, St Paul’s catacombs are being monitored for temperature and humidity levels. It is expected that full restoration of the catacombs will be complete by 2013.

The catacombs of St Paul are on UNESCO’s tentative World Heritage List. It is, indeed, important that sites such as this are studied and maintained for future generations. They not only provide us with a glimpse of the past but, on a human level, a link to our ancestors.

This link from Heritage Malta should enable you to see the catacombs in 360.

St Paul’s Catacombs

St Agatha Street

Rabat

October 2011

Wayside Chapels – St Martin at Bahrija

2011-11-10T22:35:00.001+01:00

This small chapel in the tiny (but rapidly expanding) village of Bahrija is dedicated to St Martin, Bishop of Tours. No one knows exactly when this chapel was built, however it is likely that it was constructed some time during the 15th century. According to the pastoral records of Bishop Molina the chapel was rebuilt in 1684. This very simple chapel is rectangular in shape with one small round window providing light for the interior. The belfry was built in 1946.

According to Christian tradition, Martin converted to Christianity against his parents wishes. While serving as a Roman soldier in Gaul he came across a scantily dressed beggar at the gates of Amiens. It is said that Martin cut his military cloak in half and shared it with the beggar who later revealed himself to be Jesus. The feast of St Martin is celebrated on November 11.

Here in Malta it is customary for children to be given a cloth bag filled with nuts, autumn fruits such as apples and oranges, dried figs and a type of sweet bread topped with an anise-tasting sweet (il-hobza ta San Martin or the bread of St Martin) for this feast.

This weekend the village of Bahrija will celebrate the feast of Saint Martin with an agricultural fair which will include a show for farm animals. I have yet to make it Bahrija for this feast mainly because the village is inundated by visitors who upset the usual peace and tranquility of this picturesque spot.

View from a small clearing next to the chapel of St Martin

St Martin’s Chapel

Bahrija

Photographed August 2011

The Lighthouse At Delimara

2011-11-04T22:44:00.001+01:00

This lighthouse, which is situated in the southernmost tip of Malta, was built by the British in 1854. Its light served as a beacon for all maritime traffic approaching Malta. Until 1896, the lighthouse had a static red lantern but this was replaced by a more powerful gasoline lamp which was operated by a hand-wound mechanism. This lamp gave off alternating beams of red and white light every 30 seconds.

In 2006 the Malta Maritime Authority entrusted the restoration and upkeep of the lighthouse to Din l-Art Helwa, an NGO founded in 1965 to safeguard the historic, artistic and natural heritage of Malta. Restoration on the lighthouse should be complete by the summer of 2012 when Din l-Art Helwa hope to offer the lighthouse as holiday accommodation to those visitors wishing to experience something different from an impersonal hotel room. I would not mind renting the place out for a weekend myself when it becomes available. It would surely be a unique experience and, given the isolated location of the lighthouse at Delimara Point, possibly a romantic one too. I would certainly love to stay there on a stormy winter night with lightning flashing all around me, rain lashing the wide windows and a gale-force wind rattling the weather-vane and spinning it around and around.

It’s a scene which is causing shivers to run down my spine but definitely something I would love to do at least once in my life. And the view from the top will, naturally, be nothing less than magnificent. I can feel myself getting excited about this. Din l-Art Helwa can rest assured that they will have at least one visitor as soon as the restoration is complete and bookings are accepted.

Delimara Lighthouse

Delimara Point

Marsaxlokk

Photographed June 2011

And Then Melite

2011-10-26T22:33:00.001+02:00

Life changed under the Romans, but not much and not for me – I was just known by a new name: Melite (or Melita). Roman rule ushered in an era of prosperity. I was larger in those days, my outer walls extended to the nearby town that is now called Rabat. It was a time of conquest and the Caesars were hungry for new lands and riches, the legions were constantly marching and there was war in many places much further north – places like Gaul and Brittania – but those events did not affect life here in the Mediterranean. Over here there was no question as to who was the Mistress of the Seas. Rome’s power held sway with a vice-like grip but with it came the Pax Romana, long years of peace during which trade flourished and the population increased.

Ruins of a Roman domus just outside the walls of Mdina (which can be seen in the background).

It was during this time that Paul, a preacher from Tarsus, was shipwrecked on these shores while on his way to Rome to be tried for treason against the emperor. They brought him to a cave within my walls and held him prisoner here for 3 months. Paul used his time here to preach the words of Jesus to the inhabitants and the Roman governor Publius was one of the first converts to this new faith.

Life here continued peacefully, for the most part, interrupted every now and then by raids from Cilician pirates. In 117AD, emperor Hadrian granted the Island the status of Municipium. This meant that the inhabitants had the same rights as the citizens of Rome except for the right to vote.

Ruins of a Roman domus just outside the walls of Mdina

While generations lived and died within my walls and in the communities scattered around the island, the winds of war were gathering over the mighty empire that Rome had become.The empire was divided into two and the islands were placed under the jurisdiction of the Eastern empire. During this period of turmoil the island fell to the Vandals only to be re-conquered for the eastern empire by general Belisarius in 535AD. So once again I had a new ruler. The Byzantines fortified my walls and made me secure but that was not enough to prevent the next wave of invaders from conquering this land. In 870AD Melita fell to new invaders from the east – the Arabs.

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This is the second chapter in Mdina’s story – the Roman chapter. Remains from that era have been found and historians are always trying to piece together the story of an island whose only importance was its strategic position in the centre of the Mediterranean. A lot of evidence from this period now lies buried under the Mdina and Rabat that we know today. Land is scarce here and, in ages past, remains of an old Roman city would have been deemed of little or no importance. So these remains would filled in and new buildings built on top of them. About 10 years ago, while road works were being carried out in various streets in Mdina, Roman ruins were found beneath the level of the current street. Work had to stop while historians and archeologists did their thing. Then the trenches were filled and Melite continued to dream uninterruptedly, as she had for so many centuries in the past.

Wayside Chapels – Our Lady Of Itria

2011-10-20T20:19:00.001+02:00

This chapel is situated in the picturesque location of Bingemma (pron. Binjemma) right at the edge of a rock-face overlooking a valley. The first chapel in this area was built in 1600 by the Noble Giovanni Maria Xara. By 1658 the chapel was pretty much in ruins but in 1680 Baron Stanislaw Xara demolished the church and had it rebuilt, using the same stones, in its current location.

Like the majority of wayside chapels, the façade of this chapel is very simple – the only decoration is the coat of arms of Baron Stanislaw Xara above the circular window together with a small belfry with a cross on top.

A number of caves in the limestone rock-face were used as dwellings during the Bronza Age period. Also in this area are a small number of Punic tombs and shards of Roman pottery have also been unearthed by farmers working in their fields in Bingemma valley. Not far from this chapel the British had built a fort (Fort Bingemma) together with a line of fortifications known as the Victoria Lines. These defenses stretch for 12km from Madliena in the east to Bingemma in the west.

The view from the back of the chapel is quite magnificent with terraced fields, rolling hills and the sea stretching out as far as the eye can see.

In the distance, the island of Gozo is clearly visible.

Bingemma is a wonderful place for a family outing and there are many paths in the area along which one can take a peaceful walk disturbed only by the drone of bees and chirping birds.

Note

The title ‘of itria’ is an abbreviation of the Greek word ‘hodigitria’ – she who shows the way. The word ‘itria’ was corrupted by the Maltese to ‘ittra’ which is the Maltese word for letter. Thus, sometimes, this chapel is mistakenly referred to as Our Lady of the Letter.

The Chapel of Our Lady of Itria is open every Sunday at 7.00am and during the last weekend of October when the feast is celebrated.

Photographed at

Bingemma

March 2011

Upper Barrakka Gardens

2011-10-11T22:50:00.001+02:00

These garden were built in 1661 by Knight Gran Prior Flaminio Baldani specifically as private gardens for the Italian Knights of the Order of St John. They are situated on top of a demi-bastion dedicated to St Peter and St Paul and command unobstructed views of Grand Harbour and of the area known as the Three Cities. The gardens were opened to the public in 1824.

The gardens are adorned by a number of statues and monuments in stone and in bronze. There is a lovely arcaded section with a massive column at one end. This area used to be covered but the roof was removed in 1775 after a group of knights had met there to conspire against the Grand Master of the time.

A lower terrace served as a Saluting Battery until 1973. Nowadays the gun is fired daily at noon by re-enactors dressed in period costume.

The Upper Barrakka Gardens are a favourite haunt of both locals and tourists. In summer these gardens host a number of outdoor activities including the Delicata Wine Festival, Patches – The Special Market and also private functions such as weddings.

When I was still a student I worked in Valletta for two summers and most mornings I would walk to the Upper Barrakka to see the sun rising over Grand Harbour. It was truly a wonderful sight especially on humid September mornings when wisps of mist still lay on the surface of the sea, dissipating slowly as the heat increased, to reveal solid bastion walls, ramparts and fortresses tinged with a rosy pink hue.

The Upper Barrakka Gardens are not large, by any means, but the spectacular view they offer more than makes up for this. I would have to conclude that those Italian Knights knew what they were doing when they chose this site as their private garden.

Photographed at

The Upper Barrakka Gardens

Valletta

July 2011

(during the Patches Market)

San Teodoro – Abandoned and Forgotten

2011-10-09T16:55:00.000+02:00

Somewhere on a country road between the towns of Rabat and Siggiewi there is an old abandoned cemetery. Popularly known as Tal-Brija cemetery, it is in fact dedicated to San Teodoro – and that is all I know or was able to find out. The fact that it is situated in the middle of nowhere (or as in-the-middle-of-nowhere as you can get on a small island) would have me surmise that it was used to bury people who died of an infectious disease, most likely the plague. After years of living with my curiosity, last winter I decided to take a look inside, hoping to find a gravestone or a plaque somewhere that would help me date the place. Unfortunately, the grounds and graves are covered with weeds and a forest of wild sumac trees.

Who lies beneath will remain a mystery. Their names forgotten. Their memory obliterated by time and nature.

San Teodoro Cemetery (Tal-Brija)

Girgenti

l/o Siggiewi

February 2011.

The Legend Of Ghar Hasan

2011-09-26T21:58:00.001+02:00

There is a cave on the southern cliffs, situated on a narrow precipice and commanding a spectacular view of sheer rock-faces and miles and miles of deep blue sea. It is known as Ghar Hasan (the gh in ghar is completely silent) – Hasan’s cave.

Like many such places there is a legend tied to this cave. In fact there a number of different versions of this legend but the central figure in all of them is a Saracen named Hasan. In the most popular version of the legend it is said that Hasan abducted a beautiful Maltese farm-girl and held her captive in this cave. This raised the ire of the locals who proceeded to attack the cave. Rather than be captured, Hasan flung the girl into the sea below and then committed suicide by jumping over the edge of the precipice.

You may find another version of Hasan’s legend here.

Whether there is any truth to these legends is hard to tell. There is no written record to suggest that these stories are based on facts. However I would speculate that a person named Hasan did live in this cave at some point in time and, seeing the treacherous path that leads to the cave, it is highly possible that there was someone who fell to their death from this spot. Separating the truth from the legend at this point in time is impossible and unnecessary. All true legends are shrouded in mystery and the legend of Ghar Hasan is no exception.

For a view of the cave from the sea below please visit Malta Daily Photo here.

Note to prospective visitors

Officially, the cave is closed to the public and surrounded by a tall metal fence – so we will leave the particulars of how I managed to get in a mystery (but any other blogger worth their salt would have done what I did). The guard rail is rusted and corroded and in most places the ground just drops vertiginously into the sea without warning. In all honesty (and perhaps because I was there all by myself) the place gave me the creeps and I did not venture inside at all but took a quick photo from the mouth of the cave. That ghostly chair that you can see in the picture above totally freaked me out until I remembered that when the cave was open to the public there used to be a man renting out torches for a few cents. I suppose that when the place was closed down he left his chair behind and no one has removed it since. Or perhaps Hasan comes back from time to time to reminisce and enjoy the solitude and the view.

For those of interested in the cave itself, there is a short description on this site.

Photographed at

Ghar Hasan

l/o Birzebbuga

Ruby Tuesday–The Valletta Waterfront

2011-09-19T20:18:00.001+02:00

Pops of red (and yellow and blue…) at the Valletta Waterfront. Formerly these were warehouses built by Grand Master Pinto 250 years ago. The area has now been developed as a cruise liner terminal and the warehouses have been converted into shops and restaurants.

The Waterfront is a nice place for an evening stroll and provides unobstructed views of Grand Harbour.

Some may find the colours of the doors, windows and wooden balconies to be gaudy and definitely not in keeping with the former character of this place. Personally I think the colours are fun, even though not historically accurate, and they worked just fine for me, providing me with enough red to participate in this week’s Ruby Tuesday.

Photographed at

The Valletta Waterfront

Valletta

For more Ruby Tuesday posts visit Mary at Work Of The Poet.

St Mark’s Priory

2011-09-14T22:12:00.001+02:00

St Mark’s priory is situated in a narrow street in the hear of the town of Rabat – just a stone’s throw from Mdina. The first priory which existed in the area was demolished in 1551 during an attack by the Turks since its proximity to Mdina was deemed as a security risk. A new priory was built and completed in 1558 by architect Girolamo Cassar. Parts of the priory were later re-modelled by Tommaso Dingli in 1652. In 1740 the priory was largely rebuilt, since the original structure was almost completely dilapidated, this time according to the plan of Andrea Belli. The Baroque façade of the building we see today is probably one of the most elaborate in Rabat. During the French occupation of Malta by Napoleon and his troops, the friars were ordered to leave the priory and it was stripped of all decoration. The French also removed the emblems on the portico.

During WW2 the priory served as a school for boys and also as a home for male refugees from the Cottonera area (most people who lived in the Cottonera area were evacuated to towns further inland due to the proximity of the dockyard which was a prime war-time target).

The priory did not sustain any damage during the war and as a result has remained unchanged for over 250 years. I have walked past this priory hundreds of times but what lies inside is a mystery to me. The heavy wooden door is nearly always closed and it is only on very few occasions that it has been left ajar and I was able to catch a glimpse of the interior which, in contrast to the façade, appears to be very simple – long white-washed corridors surrounding an internal courtyard; glimpses of another world, of an almost forgotten way of life.

You may view a complete history of the priory here.

They Called Me Maleth

2011-09-01T22:10:00.001+02:00

… and so many other names over the years … but I need to start at the beginning. It was many, many years ago that my foundations were laid on this inland hill, far from the sea and safe from enemy attacks. I cannot remember the exact date when I came into being, but it was probably around 700BC. It was those ancient mariners known as Phoenicians who first built dwellings on this hill. They came from afar, those mariners of old, from Tyre and Sidon, in what is now Lebanon. They named me Maleth*, meaning ‘safe harbour’ in their tongue. The Phoenicians were traders, famous for the purple dye which they extracted from the shells of sea snails – a dye which in antiquity was highly coveted by emperors and kings. Over time this sea-faring nation established colonies all over the Mediterranean, the most famous one being Carthage (in modern day Tunisia).

But I digress. What happened across the sea did not affect me until many years later. Soon I fell under the direct jurisdiction of Carthage. Trade flourished and so did I. Walls were erected, streets were laid and buildings were built – houses, a temple maybe? I cannot recall. It was so long ago and so much has crumbled or been destroyed. All that remains are fragments – a foundation wall here, a piece of pottery there - from which they try to piece my story together.

Image via Malta Geografika

The years passed and I heard that a new power had risen to the North, eager for lands and conquest, eager for glory. Its legions marched and fought under the sign of the eagle. Soon I heard rumours of wars that were fought in the surrounding sea – the Punic Wars, historians later called them. News of the battles reached me slowly but, over the years and after many battles and various shifts in the dominant power that ruled the Mediterranean sea, the legions of the eagle emerged victorious and the power of the city called Rome held sway over the Mediterranean and beyond for hundreds of years. As for me, I too changed hands and fell under control of the mighty Roman empire. But that is a tale for some other day …

*Maleth was also the name given to Malta during this time.

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This is the first in a series of posts about the chequered history of the town we now call Mdina. I hope you will enjoy them and that they will give you a clearer picture of the truth beneath all the flowery words and mystery with which I have shrouded Mdina up to now. Perhaps once her story is revealed you will prefer the mysterious seductress of the night to the brick and mortar city brought forth into the harsh scrutiny of the world. But I really do believe, that no matter how deep we will delve, Mdina will keep some secrets to herself.

Ruby Tuesday: The Street Organ

2011-08-29T20:57:00.001+02:00

Known in Maltese as ‘terramaxka’, street organs were a common sight on our streets in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In the days when radios and TVs were unheard of, street organs provided an important source of entertainment during village feasts, carnival and day to day life. The street organ in the photos below dates from 1929. It has been restored by Dutchman Mari Van Rooy and is the only functioning street organ in Malta. These days the terramaxka is a frequently found at festivals, like the recently held Epoka at the Valletta Waterfront. Even in this age of instant technology, the street organ still delights old and young alike.

On some weekends, this wonderfully restored street organ may also be found in the streets of Valletta. You can go to the video link below to hear it play.

Malta’s Street Organ at City Gate, Valletta

You may find a brief history of street organs in Malta at The House of the Terramaxka.

Street Organ

photographed at the Valletta Waterfront

June 2011

I am linking this post to Ruby Tuesday hosted by Mary The Teach at Work Of The Poet.

Video source: YouTube

Malta And The Movies (1)– Malta Story

2011-08-24T21:00:00.001+02:00

This series of posts is inspired by Suze, writing at Girl Wizard, who has been sharing some of her favourite movies with us. So I thought, why not a post about movies filmed in Malta? Although small, Malta has a number of interesting locations which have been used as the backdrop for a number of movies. You can go to Wikipedia for a full List of Films Shot In Malta. Every now and then over the next couple of months I will give you a brief overview of the ones which went on to become famous. Today I will start with the earliest movie shot in Malta which was Malta Story released in 1953.

Malta Story (1953) starring Alec Guinnes, Jack Hawkins and Muriel Pavlow is based on life in Malta during WW2, the island and its people and the RAF aviators who defended it with their lives. Although the acting is very much in 1950s style and the ending is quite predictable, this movie does give a good portrayal of what it was like to live in Malta during WW2 when daily air attacks were the order of the day and most of the population spent long hours in underground shelters that were hewn out of the limestone all over the island. This film was shot at various locations around the island including: the Lascaris War Rooms, Fort St Elmo, Grand Harbour, Valletta, Ta Qali and the Neolithic temples of Mnajdra.

Summer Is Calling

2011-08-15T20:33:00.001+02:00

Just chilling out a bit. Forgive my absence. I’ll be back soon.

Gnejna Bay

August 2011

Mdina And A Tale Of An Ancient Seductress

2011-08-09T23:10:00.001+02:00

It’s been a while since I’ve taken you with me to roam the silent streets of Mdina at night. I’ve written many a post about her seductive beauty but no matter how many times my feet walk those ancient streets, it seems that I always discover some new charm. From sleepy convents to houses so old that their walls could tell a thousand tales, each sight is familiar – for I have gazed at these dwellings at least a hundred times; a thousand even.

Yet every time she weaves a new spell, the old seductress. Some mysteries she has revealed, but others she keeps to herself, hiding them in her bosom, for some other visit, for some other walk through the echoing, cobbled streets.

The ghosts of Mdina are always kind – benevolent, almost. And amongst the ghosts walk the shadows of my younger self as countless fragmented memories stir and take form every time I wander through her winding streets. I never know what she’ll choose to reveal, but I welcome them all – these brief glimpses into a long-lost time. And no matter how far away my journey takes me, I know I will always return to this silent city which has seduced my soul.

*********************************************************************************

As I said at the beginning of this post, I have written about Mdina many times. If you go to my sidebar and click on the label Mdina it will take you to all my previous posts and each one will reveal a little bit of the enigmatic whole. It’s story is so old that I always balk at the idea of trying to write it in a single post and, more often than not, I do not reveal much as the place takes me on unprecedented flights of whimsy every time I venture inside its gates. But I hope that slowly, over time, I will be able to reveal a bit more so that one day you may be able to put the pieces together to see the unbroken truth.

Photographs of

The Streets of Mdina

May 2011

Lethal Beauty–The Oleander

2011-08-02T23:26:00.001+02:00

The heat is intense and summer is reaching its peak. The ground is parched and the patches of dry earth seem like miniature deserts surrounding our towns and villages. On the horizon, the blue ribbon that is the sea meets the expanse of the sky in a hazy embrace. It seems like colour has taken flight to cooler climes. Yet amidst all the dreariness, the oleanders bloom in pretty hues. Like confetti at a summer wedding their flowers are plentiful and alleviate the monotony of brown caked earth.

One of my favourite ‘oleander walks’ is across this bridge that used to be the only link between the towns of Rabat and Mtarfa. Oleander bushes are planted on both sides of the bridge and, from June to September, when crossing this bridge at certain times of the day it feels as if the air is suffused with a magical, pink light. Although oleander blooms come in a variety of colours (including red) the predominant colours, both on this bridge and along various roads all over the island, are dark and light pink and white.

Oleander plants are very hardy and can withstand long periods of drought (hence they are perfect for our long, dry summers). Being perennials, the bushes grow bigger every year and in many cases they are trimmed down to prevent them from over-growing. The flowers are very pretty, the leaves long and of a vibrant dark green shade. Yet this beautiful plant is known to be highly toxic. In fact one of its leaves can be lethal if ingested by a child or small animal. Thankfully I have never heard of anyone who had the not-so-bright idea to eat the leaves. However, I do remember that, as young kids, one of our favourite pastimes was to cut off a few oleander leaves, mash them up,add a variety of other wild plants together with some soil and water to make ‘cakes’. It’s a good thing that the disgusting appearance of our early attempts at baking put us off from trying to take a nibble or I might not be here today to write this story.

Here’s hoping that your summers are not too harsh and that pretty blooms cheer you along your way.

Spreading The Word – Malta’s First Frock Swap

2011-07-26T20:45:00.001+02:00

This is just a short post to help Abby (aka The Fish In Malta) spread the word about a Frock Swap she is organising this coming Saturday (July 30th). Proceeds from the Frock Swap will go towards Noah’s Ark Animal Sanctuary. You may find more information about the swap on the blog Fish Frock Swap.

Unfortunately, there is a problem with abandoned animals on the island and Noah’s Ark Animal Sanctuary picks up stray dogs and cats and tries to find good homes for them. In the meantime, the animals are fed and given the necessary veterinary care and this, of course, requires funds.

So if you live in Malta, love animals and would like to participate in the Frock Swap please visit this link.

Kitten

Photographed at

San Anton Palace Gardens

September 2009

Wayside Chapels: Our Lady of Carmel at Fawwara

2011-07-22T21:15:00.001+02:00

I have, of course, already talked about Fawwara, the little hamlet beneath the cliffs that seems to be suspended in time. Today I want to share with you the tiny gem of a chapel dedicated to Our Lady Of Carmel that commands one of the most breath-taking views on the island. Surrounded by fields, plunging cliffs and cornflower-blue sea, the silence is almost deafening, the peace and tranquility a balm to the soul. The vista from the parapet stretches out for miles and seems to draw the eyes to the islet of Filfla, rising majestically out of the water.

The chapel was built in 1616 with funds provided by Girolama Ciantar. It is said that at the time a severe drought hit the island and a spring of fresh water, that fed the fields in the vicinity and which were owned by Girolama’s family, dried up with the consequence that the family was about to lose its crops. Girolama vowed that if the water started to flow again she would build a church on the spot. The lady prayed and the water did flow. Girolama Ciantar kept her promise and bequeathed her fields to the Brotherhood of Our Lady of Charity of St Paul’s Church Valletta. In 1669 the church was rebuilt by the brotherhood and subsequently restored in 1756. The feast of Our Lady of Carmel will be celebrated at the small chapel in Fawwara this coming Sunday.

Sometimes I feel as if I could go on and on writing about the magic of this place. It has captured my imagination to such an extent that I feel that, like the fabled Avalon, it does not belong to this world and that once we leave, the mists drift down and hide it away until it is time for another visit; that in the meantime everything will remain as it has for centuries until we venture again on the secret road that will lead us through the mists and to the reality that is on the other side.

Of course, the road is not really secret and no mists exist unless rain has fallen but I do believe that what we find when we get there depends on what we are looking for.

Silence. Solitude. Legends. Prayers. Miracles. Fantasy. In this place, so far from the crowds and from modern-day civilization, I believe that the impossible can, and does, happen.

This place is so unique that my photos alone cannot do it justice. Please visit this link at Malta In 360 . I promise you the few extra minutes you spend there will be worth it.

Photographed at Fawwara, April 2011

Historical information adapted from: A Hundred Wayside Chapels of Malta & Gozo by Kilin.

Ruby Tuesday: Of Flowers And Rubble Walls

2011-07-18T23:25:00.001+02:00

Sometimes it happens that I come across a scene that looks perfect to my eyes – the colours and the textures working together to create an imprint in my mind; and since I want to record that imprint forever, out comes my camera and I snap a shot. It’s a moment in late spring and all three plants in the photo are in bloom: to the left - a cactus plant that will give us prickly pear fruits in September (you can read more about prickly pears here); to the right - a red oleander and, at the bottom of the photo, a caper bush (which I talked about in my post When The Capers Bloom), all growing alongside a rubble wall. I like to call rubble walls ‘the stone hedges of Malta’. Rubble walls serve as retaining and boundary walls and are built without the use of cement or mortar. It takes skillful builders to ensure that the walls remain erect just by placing stones in such a way that they lock and stay in place.

Photographed at Delimara

The pop of red from the oleander provides the perfect hue for this week’s Ruby Tuesday. Other Ruby Tuesday posts may be viewed at Work Of The Poet.

The Old Naval Bakery

2011-07-13T22:51:00.001+02:00

The Naval Bakery in Birgu (Vittoriosa) was built by the British in 1845 by British architect and engineer William Scamp on the site of an old covered slipway previously used by the Knights of St John for their fleet. The bakery was an important victualling centre for the Royal Navy’s Mediterranean fleet. After WW2 the building was converted into offices and stores and also housed the Admiralty Constabulary.

In 1992 the Old Naval Bakery was converted into the Malta Maritime Museum. The exhibits at the Maritime Museum chart the sea-faring history of this island and its close relationship with the sea that surrounds us. Relics on exhibit date from ancient times with a vast collection of anchors from the Roam period on display. Other items in the museum include books, cannons, models of ships, navigation instruments, weapons and uniforms with large sections dedicated to the Navy of the Order of St John and the Royal Navy. Perhaps the most famous item on display is the figurehead of HMS Hibernia a ship of the line, launched at Plymouth dockyard in 1804.

She was the flagship of the British Mediterranean fleet from 1816 to 1855 when she became the flagship for the Royal Navy base in Malta and stationed in Grand Harbour. The ship was sold in 1902 and eventually dismantled. The figurehead was in Portsmouth for several years and then restored and returned to Malta in 1994.

Malta Maritime Museum

Ex-Naval Bakery

Birgu

Ruby Tuesday: Of Saints And Doorways

2011-07-04T21:55:00.001+02:00

An old house in the ancient town of Rabat. Above the red doorway, an artist’s rendition of the apostle Paul, the paint flaking, the stonework crumbling.

I have talked about this area in Rabat, known as Hal-Bajjada here. The apostle Paul was shipwrecked in Malta on his way to Rome. This episode is recorded in Acts 27 and 28. A strong local tradition suggests that Paul lived in a cave underneath what is now the parish church of Rabat. The town has a strong Pauline tradition and statues like the one above are quite a common adornment on the facades of older houses. I thought that the saint’s red mantle would make a good contribution for this week’s Ruby Tuesday.

More Ruby Tuesday entries here

Maltese Traditions (2): L-Imnarja

2011-06-29T20:21:00.001+02:00

The feast of Mnarja (pronounced imnarya) held annually on June 29 traditionally celebrates the martyrdom of saints Peter and Paul. However, this feast has its roots in antiquity, to the time when Malta formed part of the Roman Empire and the feast of Luminaria was celebrated around this time. This short night in early summer was celebrated by lighting torches and bonfires. Gradually the feast became Christianised and continued to be celebrated, especially by farmers, since in essence it is a type of harvest festival. Mnarja is celebrated in Buskett, a wooded area on the outskirts of the town of Rabat. When the Knights ruled Malta they built a castle in Buskett (Verdala Palace) and used it as a summer residence and hunting lodge.

The Maltese were not allowed to enter or hunt in the wooded grounds of the castle except on one day of the year: June 29. During British rule, governor William Reid introduced an agricultural show which is held to this day. The celebration of Mnarja starts on the evening prior to the feast with traditional singing, known as ghana (pnounced aana), and the cooking of food in Buskett. The dishes most commonly associated with Mnarja are rabbit stew and pork cooked on a spit, followed by imqaret (a concoction of dates enclosed in dough and deep fried) for dessert. Nowadays, foreign influence can be seen in the stalls selling burgers and fries, ice-cream cones and candy floss (or cotton candy for my American readers ).

On the day of the feast, produce and livestock participating in the agricultural show are judged and prizes awarded.

The religious aspect of the feast is celebrated at the Cathedral of St Paul in Mdina. In the past, it was considered good luck for a husband to take his newly-wed wife to Buskett for Mnarja during their first year of marriage. This tradition has long since died out.

The atmosphere at Buskett has naturally changed over the years. The amount of animals on show keeps decreasing year by year as less and less people are earning their livelihood by farming and also because many of our open spaces are dwindling as permits continue to be granted to so called ‘entrepreneurs’ who persist in building flats and houses that seem to take ages to sell. With respect to Buskett itself, environmentalists complain that the crowds that flock to the area do not show enough respect to their surroundings since they trample and uproot vegetation in the whole area including the surrounding valley known as Wied il-Luq.

It has been many years since I ventured to Buskett for this feast but, this year two things made me decide to go. The first is this blog since I felt that I should introduce my readers to some local traditions and it would also be a good photo-taking opportunity for me. Secondly, now that my son is 5 years old, I thought he might enjoy an outing that would include animals together with traditions that date back thousands of years. Unfortunately we arrived too late in the day to see the livestock since their owners take them back home before the day heats up too much but we were able to enjoy the smaller animals like rabbits, geese, ducks, hens and other birds as these are kept in a shaded area.

In a country where wooded areas are very scarce, Buskett is definitely a treasure that needs to be preserved for future generations to enjoy. Although today I was more intent on capturing some shots of the Mnarja festival, I will return in future to take more photos of this lovely place – when there are no crowds and I can enjoy the buzzing bees and the cicadas and watch the lizards and geckos lap up the sun; when peace and tranquility reign, I promise I will be back.

Triton Fountain and The End Of An Era

2011-06-21T20:40:00.001+02:00

Triton Fountain at Sunset

This is Triton Fountain – currently situated at the main bus terminus just outside the walls of Valletta. It is a sculpture in bronze by Maltese sculptor Vincent Apap. Erected in 1959, it soon became a much-loved landmark. Indeed its wide marble basin has always been a favourite meeting place with local teenagers. On warm summer evenings the sound of its splashing water has accompanied many a hasty teen-age kiss and its circular basin has provided the perfect platform for many private dramas and outbursts of youthful angst.

Triton Fountain at Sunset

Originally, the bowl held up by the tritons was much larger and the central column (which you can just make out in the photos) did not exist. However, after the surface of the bowl was controversially used as a performance stage in the late 1970s, the structure was damaged. For many years it was in disrepair but it still continued to be a popular meeting place. It was repaired in the late 1980s (when the smaller bowl and central column were included) and the cheerful sound of its jets of water continued to delight new generations.

Triton Fountain at Sunset

Triton Fountain is now back on everyone’s lips. The entrance to our capital city is being given a much needed face-lift. The plans were drawn by world-renowned architect Renzo Piano. Unfortunately, Piano’s plans include the removal of the fountain from its current location to another location 50 metres away where it will, most likely, no longer function as a fountain. This plan has not really gone done well with the general population since many feel that the fountain has earned its place at the entrance to Valletta not only because of its artistic value but because of the affectionate hold it has on the national psyche. Those, like me, who have gown up with this landmark, have met countless friends at its base and who have have sat on its warm stones on many lazy summer nights, are loathe to see it go. But the powers-that-be have spoken and Piano’s plans have won over national nostalgia and Apap’s artistry.

Triton Fountain at Night

Ruby Tuesday: Another Post Box

2011-06-13T20:38:00.001+02:00

Mail boxes are red here and the older ones bear the insignia of the British monarch who was on the throne when the mail box was put up. You may read more about this in my post Red and Regal. This particular post box bears the insignia of King Edward VII. Edward VII was king between 1901 and 1910, which makes this post box over 100 years old.

I never thought post boxes could be fascinating but these older ones, bearing the royal cyphers, are very intriguing. I must admit that it has become a bit of an obsession to hunt out the very old post boxes and snap some shots. It is a great way of getting back in touch with our past. In reality a post box is just an everyday object which serves an important function but just stop and think of all the letters and messages that have been mailed inside this box. Letters of hope, of love, of encouragement. Letters from loved ones in foreign lands. Happy messages, sad messages. So many secrets in one little post box.

Photographed in

Main Gate Street

Birgu

This is my entry for this week’s Ruby Tuesday. For more Ruby Tuesday posts visit Mary at Work Of The Poet.

Ruby Tuesday: Red Balconies in Birgu

2011-06-06T20:27:00.001+02:00

After a long absence I am back participating in Ruby Tuesday. I hope that by now I have accumulated enough images with red in them to be able to link up to this fun meme on a weekly basis.

For this week’s entry I have chosen a photo of some red balconies in the medieval maritime city* of Birgu (aka Vittoriosa). Balconies, of course, are the quintessential adornments of most of the older houses in the Mediterranean and can be covered or uncovered and made of wood or stone. Covered wooden balconies, like the ones in the photo, are perfect for a spot of eavesdropping, if you are so inclined, and also provide an ideal perch above the street from where you can watch the daily neighborhood drama being enacted. I think that the current fad of painting local balconies in bold reds, greens and blues contrasts well with the honey-coloured limestone that makes up Maltese houses.

Photographed in

Main Gate Street

Birgu

Like any medieval town or village in Malta, Birgu is made up of narrow winding streets flanked on each side by buildings which are 2 to 3 storeys high. Being a harbor town, Birgu has a long history of maritime, mercantile and military activities. Following the heavy bombardment it sustained during WW2, Birgu experienced a sharp decline in its population (which was almost halved when compared to pre-war years). For a large number of years, many of the remaining buildings went in decline and the population continued to dwindle. In the past decade the government, together with a number of private entrepreneurs, started to invest in the area and many of the older buildings are being renovated and restored. A Yacht Marina was built and the buildings and palaces on the waterfront at St Lawrence Wharf have been leased to house restaurants and cafeterias.

I have already written about Birgu another time and you may read the post here. New readers may also read more about the chequered history of this town at the official portal of the Birgu Local Council.

Major attractions in Birgu include Fort St Angelo, the Maritime Museum (housed in the former Royal Navy Bakery), the church of St Lawrence, the Inquisitor’s Palace, the Couvre Port and the extensive fortifications (to name just a few).

*Please note that the word city here in Malta is used very loosely and does not refer to modern metropolises such as London or New York. In fact, some of our ‘cities’ (like Mdina) are inhabited by not more than 500 people.

For more posts with pops of red, visit Mary at Work of the Poet.

Sandstorms – The Birth Pangs of Summer

2011-05-23T20:56:00.001+02:00

This is what the weather looked like today.

The clouds are full of sand which travels across the Mediterranean all the way from the Sahara desert on the wings of strong winds. Known as the scirocco, this wind is usually warm and rather clammy as the hot desert air travels northward and picks up moisture from the sea. When it gets here, some rain falls. Big orange drops, which quickly dry up leaving spots over everything that is left outside.

Sandstorms,

thunderstorms,

dusty rain,

gale force winds,

overcast skies,

rough seas,

warm days,

cool nights -

all herald the birth of balmy summer days.

Her Majesty

2011-05-10T22:37:00.001+02:00

Still proudly surveying her surroundings, this statue of Queen Victoria by Sicilian sculptor Giuseppe Valenti has kept the memory of Her Majesty very much alive in our capital city. Behind the statue is the beautiful building housing the National Library.

The statue itself is in a square which is surrounded by a number of cafeterias and is a very popular place to stop for a coffee while on ~~a shopping spree~~ an errand in our capital city. I can only imagine the thousands of conversations that Her Majesty must have eavesdropped on - from business transactions to the whispers of lovers – there is not much that goes on in this square that can escape her penetrating gaze.

The statue of Queen Victoria was erected in 1891 to mark the 50th anniversary of her reign and the first centenary of British colonial rule in Malta.

Queen Victoria Statue

Republic Square (formerly Queen’s Square)

Valletta

I’ll Meet You By The Wembley

2011-04-30T20:21:00.001+02:00

If you live in Malta you will, at some point in your life, have met someone by the Wembley Store. This store has probably seen more meetings than any other place on the island. Its location on a corner between Republic and South streets in Valletta, and opposite the old opera house, seems to make it an ideal venue where to meet someone in the city. It’s not that Valletta lacks landmarks. I think it’s just that its location is ideal as it is just a few metres away from the entrance to the city.

The store itself was opened in 1924 by Emanuel Gauci. Its name was inspired by the British Empire Exhibition held at Wembley (London) that same year. During the second World War the bombs that destroyed the opera house also damaged the store but it still continued to serve customers and, once the war was over, it was renovated and enlarged. Recently the store has again been refurbished and the façade embellished to give the shop a turn-of-the-century feel. I think it looks great and that it will continue to be a meeting place for many years to come.

The Wembley Store

305 Republic Street

Valletta

A Girna And A Moment That Took My Breath Away

2011-04-24T21:49:00.001+02:00

There is a saying which goes something like this:

Life is not counted by the number of breaths you take but by those moments that take your breath away.

I thought that there was not much left on this little island that could take my breath away. I felt I had seen all there was to see. But sometimes I come across something which, in its sheer simplicity, is so pretty that it literally does leave me breathless for a moment or two.

This humble girna did just that and so much more. I suppose it all had to do with the fact that it was so unexpected – the contrast of the hash stone and the hundreds of vibrant yellow flowers. It seemed like the perfect place to be alone and write or read a good book. Or to just close my eyes and let myself be deafened by the silence. While the structure itself does not look like much more than a hovel, yet the view and its surroundings are fit for a king or, in my case, for a queen. And I would not mind being a queen of all this for a day, or even for an hour …

Note

A girna is a small hut built of stones often found in fields or in the countryside. They were used by farmers to store their tools, as shelter for livestock or as a short term dwelling when work in the fields became particularly intensive. These small buildings come in a variety of shapes but the most common shape is circular or oval. The interior is always domed and the roofs are flat.

While these corbelled stone huts are quite a common sight all over the countryside this girna at Fawwara is one of the most picturesque that I have seen.

Marsaxlokk & A Tale Of An Ancient Harbour

2011-04-18T22:15:00.001+02:00

In the southern part of our island there is a fishing village called Marsaxlokk. Its name is derived from the Arabic word for harbour (marsa) and the Maltese word for the south-east wind (xlokk). It is a picturesque little place – a village by the sea; the water of its bay dotted with boats. A sleepy little place, ideal for a family stroll. A harbour whose limpid waters have,since ancient times, provided sanctuary to countless ships and boats.

Around 3000 years ago the Phoenicians sailed into this harbour, bringing with them their cargo of precious purple dye and superstitions that have lived on to this day. Traditional Maltese boats are painted in vibrant colours and usually, on the bow, you will find the Eyes of Horus (or the Eyes of Osiris) for protection and good luck. It is a common tradition that these eyes have been painted on Maltese boats since that time.

The fact that these ancient mariners settled in the area can be confirmed by the temple they built to Astarte, their goddess of love, on the top of a hill overlooking this natural harbour.

Although Marsaxlokk is a typical Mediterranean village, where nothing much seems to happen except for the excitement of the daily catch, it has played its own role in the turbulent history of this island. In 1565 it witnessed an attack on the island by the Ottoman Turks, an attack which later turned into the Great Siege of 1565.

It was also the harbour used by Napoleon in 1798, when he took over the island from the Knights of St John and launched his attack on Egypt.

In 1989, Marsaxlokk was the venue for a summit held between George Bush and Mikhail Gorbachev onboard the Russian cruiser Maxim Gorky – a summit which effectively ended the cold war.

Yet I doubt whether most of us give a second thought to these events as we stroll along the sleepy promenade, watching the boats bobbing peacefully in the water. Because, on the land there is no reminder of the embattled past and, as the fishermen will tell you, the sea very rarely gives up its secrets.

Fields of Scarlet, Fields of Gold

2011-04-10T19:29:00.001+02:00

There’s a certain magic afoot at this time of year – the magic of nature, the magic of spring.

It seems to happen overnight, what once 3was a field of green grass is now carpeted in vibrant hues of red and yellow – crimson and gold.

Because as April’s warm winds reach our shores, a period of rapid growth occurs. It seems as if Nature explodes and the countryside dons its party clothes before the climbing temperatures withers everything that isn’t watered.

I don’t know whether it’s by chance or by design, but very often, these fields of crimson and fields of gold are found almost adjacent to each other.

The flowers which cause this pretty spectacle are the clover and the crown daisy: red and yellow; crimson and gold.

Photographed on the hills of Dwejra

Fawwara – a Hidden Gem Beneath The Cliffs

2011-04-03T22:39:00.001+02:00

Have you ever visited a place in your childhood that you never went to again but that lived on in your memory as a place of spectacular beauty? Well, Fawwara was that place for me. Over the years I would hear people talk about its uniqueness and its pretty views and I always longed to go back. But somehow, the time and opportunity never seemed to arise. But last Saturday we took the narrow, winding road to this little hamlet situated beneath Dingli cliffs.

The Chapel Of The Annunciation

So we followed the road that brought us first to the chapel of the Annunciation – above us the steep cliffs and below us the blue, blue sea. We headed on a bit more till the road just became a dirt path. At the end of the road was the chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Carmel (more about these two chapels in a future post). The view was magnificent: fields, the garigue, wild flowers, the sea and, in the distance, the little islet of Filfla.

And all around us, the sound of silence – broken only by the chirping and twittering of birds. In this place, time had stood still, nothing had changed and memories from my first visit so many years ago came flooding back. The view, the cliffs, the scattered farmhouses, the caves – the very same caves that had sheltered Bronze Age men and women – I could feel the place working its magic on me.

I had found a place which seemed untouched by the outside world and I felt that, like Rip van Winkle, I could stay there for an hour and a day only to return to the outside world and find out that 20 years had flown by while I was just gazing in rapture at nature’s wild beauty.

Note

I could not fund much historical information about Fawwara. The name Fawwara is derived from the Maltese word for a spring of natural water. The area of Fawwara known as Gebel Ciantar seems to have been settled since Bronze Age times when the inhabitants made use of the many caves that dot the cliffs as their dwellings. The cliffs themselves provided an impregnable fortress against any would-be marauders. In the 13th century it is said that the Arab overlord Ali Sid killed and tortured a number of young girls from Fawwara for refusing to convert to the Islamic faith. I could find no historical data to back this story. But then, what place would be complete without its legends?

The Chapel of Our Lady of Carmel

The New Star Of Strait Street

2011-03-24T19:46:00.001+01:00

I walked past this façade a couple of times wondering what was inside. At first I thought it might be a new kinky boutique or some type of club or even a dance hall. It was intriguing, to say the least.

Then I looked up at the sign above the door (just visible in the photo above) and it explained everything. This is the new public bathroom in Strait Street. Strait Street has a very chequered history, which I will write about some other time, but for many years it was Valletta’s red light district.

So I thought that the newly refurbished building was quite in keeping with the street’s past – wouldn’t you agree?

Strait Street

Valletta

A Tale Of A Solitary Stroll

2011-03-14T21:46:00.001+01:00

I took a walk on a mild winter’s day through the winding streets of an old, old town.

I stopped several times on my solitary stroll next to houses that were built when the town was young.

And as I touched their weathered stones I wondered, as I always do, about all the lives that these walls must have sheltered.

I had so many questions that I wanted to ask:

If I opened this door, where would it lead?

Who lived in this house?

Who drank from this trough?

There are such pretty colours here – was it always like this?

Did people pray at the foot of this cross?

What children played played in this small alley-way? And where are they now?

But these buildings hold on to their secrets too well. I am left to stroll the streets with my questions as companions. Maybe next time, I whisper, you will give me a glimpse of the answers I seek. Perhaps I imagined it, but it seemed to me that the faintest of chuckles accompanied me for the rest of my walk.

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Believe me, I try, I really do try not to get carried away but if I had to just recite historical facts this blog would be too boring, don’t you think? I believe that we all need small doses of fantasy every now and then.

Tradition has it that the area I strolled through used to be a Jewish ghetto prior to their expulsion in 1492. According to an article entitled Jews of Malta on the website Beit Hatfutsot, there is no evidence to support this as the Jews here were free to mingle with the rest of the population. Some Jewish remains have however been found in the nearby burial site known as St Paul’s catacombs, which makes them unique since they are Jewish catacombs within a Christian complex. So there definitely used to be a few families living in this area in the distant past.

Photographed in the Hal-Bajjada area of Rabat.

Wild flowers of Malta: Borage

2011-03-07T22:08:00.001+01:00

Borage (Borago officinalis) is a wild plant that is commonly found in the Maltese countryside. Between January and May the plants are covered with tiny blue star-shaped flowers which have white and black centres. Small, stiff bristles grow on the stems and leaves. Borage was originally a native of Syria but has now spread all over the Mediterranean, North Africa, Europe and Asia Minor. Both the flowers and the leaves are edible and, in some countries, are sometimes included in salads since they have a sweet, cucumber-like taste. The flowers are sometimes candied and used to decorate cakes.

Borage is said to have various medicinal properties and has been used to calm nerves, as a diuretic, tonic, emollient, sedative and expectorant, amongst other uses.

Very rarely the plant may produce pink or white flowers. However, I have only seen these flowers in photos. I hope that one day I will come across them on one of my countryside walks so that I can share them with you. In truth, I find the blue-coloured flowers to be quite interesting since they provide an interesting contrast to the more common yellows and whites of other wild flowers.

An Island At The Crossroads

2011-03-01T22:01:00.000+01:00

Photo source

I rarely write about current events on this blog but I cannot fail to do so during this time of upheaval. After the quick shift of power in Tunisia and Egypt, the revolution in Libya is turning into a bloodbath and the winds of civil war are howling around the streets of Tripoli. With just 210 miles of deep blue sea separating us from our Libyan neighbours, Malta has become the main hub which other countries are using to rescue thousands of their workers stranded in Tripoli, Benghazi and other cities or from remote areas in the desert. To date, over 12,000 people have made it to our shores by air, ship or catamaran. Almost overnight, this little island has become a humanitarian base, acting as a stepping stone for all those that have fled Libya and now wish to continue on their journey homewards.

Photo source

Perhaps I find it rather ironic that in times of peace Malta is so easily forgotten and dismissed as just an island which is the southern-most tip of Europe, of no importance whatsoever – and this is not far from the truth. But in times of war and crisis, the story is very different.

The Mediterranean is an ancient sea and for thousands of years the superpowers that conquered the until-then known world, rose and fell on its shores. Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Moors, Turks – their dominion has come and gone, their memory entrenched forever in our souls, their legacy still part of our daily lives. As the world focuses its eyes on North Africa, I believe that the final chapter in the history of this embattled sea still needs to be written and that the final curtain on this drama still needs to rise. Which makes me wonder what further part this island at the crossroads will have to play in the history of this oldest of seas ... but that is a story which only time can reveal.

Country Roads

2011-02-23T22:18:00.001+01:00

Do you want to take a walk with me along some pretty country roads? I am sure that Nature will show us some of her wonders – like these golden crown daisies; clumps of borage and blooming asphodel.

We’ll see trees, still leafless and forlorn, and others that have burst into colourful blooms and blossoms.

In bare branches, empty nests wait for new eggs to be laid and in the undergrowth, silent snails leave a shimmering, silvery path as they slither up stalks – perhaps to feel the warmth of the sun?

We’ll hear the song of the birds and the gurgling of little streams. A few bees and butterflies might buzz around our head as all of Nature waits for the signal that will herald the exuberant growth of soon-coming Spring.

Cape Sorrel: The Weed That Brightens Up Our Winters

2011-02-14T20:25:00.001+01:00

From mid-December to mid-April our fields and country lanes come alive with a wild flower the colour of sunshine. During these months, Cape Sorrel grows free and unrestrained. But things were not always like this. This plant was introduced to the Mediterranean from South Africa by an English lady around 200 years ago. The story goes that a few plants were grown in the greenhouses at Argotti Botanical Gardens. Somehow some seeds managed to escape and found the perfect climate and terrain to proliferate. From Malta, this pretty wild flower spread throughout the region. I found a good article by Leslie Vella on Malta Inside Out which goes into more detail about this – you can read it here.

Although this plant was not always indigenous to the Maltese islands, it has adapted so well and become so common-place that few people so much as give it a second glance. Indeed, it can be a bit of a nuisance when it takes over cultivated fields and gardens and has to be pulled out or it will suffocate any seedlings attempting to grow.

With that peculiar Maltese penchant of re-naming everything under the sun, this wild-flower is called ‘l-ingliza’ – which means the English one, or in this case, the English weed. Children also call it ‘qarsu’ (which means sour) because it is not uncommon to find kids chewing the flower stalks and they are indeed very sour. I am speaking from experience here.

Like so many things in nature, these pretty flowers come and go effortlessly. No fanfare greets their arrival. It is as if we wake up one morning and the set has been changed. Suddenly our eyes open up to the simple beauty surrounding us as, for a few month, our fields seem to reflect the sunbeams.

Red And Regal

2011-02-08T22:53:00.001+01:00

I love these old post boxes which you can find here and there in many of our old village cores. This particular one is probably about 50 years old. When Malta still formed part of the British Empire the post boxes were inscribed with the Royal Cypher of the reigning monarch. This particular post box was manufactured during the reign of the current Queen Elizabeth. However there are post boxes which are inscribed with the cyphers of other monarchs. These post boxes are even older than the one in the picture. Once Malta gained its independence from Britain the new post boxes no longer carried the royal cypher. However, they are still painted red and are definitely hard to miss even on the greyest of days.

Enjoying The Countryside At Chadwick Lakes

2011-02-02T22:23:00.001+01:00

There are no naturally occurring lakes or rivers in Malta although, in the winter time, a few streams can be found in most valleys. Chadwick Lakes are, in fact, a large reservoir built in the 1890s at the suggestion of British engineer Osbert Chadwick.

However, being a valley, a stream of natural water does gurgle playfully downstream.

This stretch of water provides a picturesque backdrop for picnics and the surrounding paths are ideal for a serene walk. The photos I am posting today were taken at the end of December and the blue skies and bright sunlight made it feel more like a spring day. However, the leafless silver birch trees were a reminder that it is not yet spring and the greenery and wild flowers are also indications that the weather is still on the cool side (I dare not say cold ).

Once June comes along all the greenery that you see will be gone and arid land will be left in its place. The water too will dry up leaving a bed of hard, dry mud. So this simple beauty is transient and fleeting, like so many other things in Nature. I hope you’ll enjoy this little walk in our countryside - it’s not very grand, I’m afraid. The island is too small for huge open spaces and it is something which a lot of us have a deep yearning for. So we make do with these little pockets of rural bliss.

And, being Malta, there has to be that wacky little something that you won’t see in many other places. Now tell me, how many of you have seen silver birches (on the left of the photo) and cacti within a few metres of each other?

Valletta By Night

2011-01-27T22:11:00.001+01:00

As promised in my last post, I will show you some scenes of Valletta after sundown. We locals like to divide Valletta into two parts: the upper commercial part and the lower residential part. In truth there are shops and residents all over Valletta and during the day there is hustle and bustle all over the city. But as night falls, the teeming streets quiet down and the echo of footsteps of a few strollers reverberates in the stillness. At night Valletta belongs once more to the ghosts of the Knights that built it. So come with me for a short walk through the lower city

past houses

and palaces

a trickling fountain

a church

and the old theatre.

(I would have liked to take you on a longer walk but the battery on my camera ran out which means I have a good excuse to return soon and explore more charming nooks in the city.)

Omerta’ – A Secret Revealed

2011-01-23T22:59:00.001+01:00

Omerta’ is defined by The Free Dictionary as a rule or code that prohibits speaking or divulging information about certain activities, especially the activities of a criminal organization. The word omerta’ has become synonymous with the Mafia and all its activities.

It also happens to be the name of a small restaurant which my husband and I discovered this past weekend. If quaint and cosy is the dining experience that you are after, then this small restaurant will surely not disappoint. Nor will the food. The fresh ravioli stuffed with prawns and lobster and served with a simple herb sauce that I had as a starter was divine – as was the rest of the food.

The atmosphere was quiet and intimate – perfect for a romantic evening. The fact that the restaurant is housed in a converted 500 year old building was an added bonus which contributed to a wonderful evening. And when our meal was over, we strolled around and explored the oft-forgotten charms of our capital city. But more about that in a future post.

Omerta Trattoria & Wine Bar

92 Old Bakery Street

Valletta

Wayside Chapels (6) – The Nativity Of Our Lady at Fiddien

2011-01-16T18:08:00.001+01:00

I could not find much information about this chapel except that a small church was built in the area in 1550 which remained closed for many years. The present chapel was re-built on the same site in 1615 by Gregorio Xerri and his wife. These days prayer meetings are held in the chapel.

The area where this chapel is situated is known as Tas-Salib (salib is cross in Maltese) because of the stone cross on a column situated just a few paces away.

The Tas-Salib area forms part of the beautiful, unspoilt valley of Fiddien. Fiddien is still a rural back-water with scattered farms and fertile fields. It is a place where silence reigns, broken only by the cheerful twittering of birds and the occasional distant yapping of farm-dogs.

When Night Falls On The Silent City

2011-01-09T18:14:00.001+01:00

The shadows lengthen and the golden glow from the lamps casts mysterious shadows on the silent buildings. Each house seems to be slumbering, dreaming.

The windows are shuttered and the doors are barred.

The streets are deserted – not a sound breaks the stillness except for the chiming of the cathedral clock every quarter hour.

Silence. Stillness. And mystery.

Perfect ingredients for a romantic walk on a chilly winter evening.

This tiny walled town on the hill never disappoints.

Mdina on a winter evening is the perfect place to escape and walk back in time.

Heavenly Voices At The Carmelite Priory

2010-12-31T18:16:00.001+01:00

The Carmelite Priory in Mdina was the venue for a Christmas Concert by the Jubilate Choir. The melodic voices soared beautifully in the ornately decorated refectory in which the friars used to eat their meals. This amazing room is a fine example of a total work of art where the architecture, paintings and sculpture come together to form a unique Baroque gem.

It was a perfect and intimate setting in which to enjoy wonderful renditions of traditional favourites such as Silent Night and O Come All Ye Faithful together with a medley of Italian and Maltese carols.

Concerts at the Refectory are held on a regular basis with proceeds and donations going towards restoration of the paintings on the breath-taking ceiling of this room. The Carmelite Priory Museum is open daily to visitors between 10.00 and 17.00 hours.

The Carmelite Priory Museum

Villegaignon Street

Mdina.

With this last post for 2010, I would like to wish all my readers a very happy new year.

It’s Christmas Time In The City

2010-12-14T20:34:00.001+01:00

The decorations in Valletta this Christmas are very simple but quite striking.

I suppose it was the local council’s way of bringing an ‘icy’ feel to our Mediterranean Christmas.

Our capital city may not be as large and imposing as other cities but it has its own innate charm.

And I think it photographs beautifully, even when night falls.

(I do hate those overhead wires though and I hope that they do something about them soon).

Photographs taken in Republic Street and Merchants’ Street, Valletta.

Maltese Traditions (1) – The Calends (L-Irwiegel)

2010-12-08T22:11:00.001+01:00

In the days before weather forecasts and satellites, the people of these islands (mostly the farmers) adopted a curious method of trying to predict the weather for the following year. Starting on the twelfth day before Christmas, they would observe the weather of each day noting shifts in the wind, the amount of clouds in the sky, and any rainfall or sunshine. The first day on which this was done, December 13th, would correspond to January, the next day to February and so on. In this way they thought they would have an idea of what the next year would bring. This ancient way of predicting the weather is common in most parts of Europe, although in some countries, the calends (irwiegel) start on different days. Countries whose calends start on the same day as Malta are Portugal, Sicily (from where this tradition was most likely adopted), France, Croatia and certain provinces in Italy. Each day started at midnight and farmers, or anyone else interested in predicting the weather in this ancient fashion, were supposed to take note of the weather variations that occurred throughout the course of each day.

Anyone inclined to follow this tradition can start noting the weather patterns each day from next Monday until Christmas eve. So, we will soon know whether we are going to have a warm February (which has not been unusual these last couple of years) or hail in August (highly unlikely). Although there is no scientific data to back this tradition, some elderly farmers claim that they used to use this method with success. Nowadays, this tradition has all but died out since it is considered to belong to the realms of superstition and ignorance. Personally, I think that there is no harm in trying this out, just for fun. After all, there is usually an element of truth in all traditions that have spanned so many generations. So, rain or shine? If the irwiegel are to be believed, I guess we will find out soon.

(Believe it or not, this photo of a cloudless sky was taken last February).

The Belvedere at Lija

2010-11-29T22:14:00.001+01:00

This Belvedere is situated in Lija, one of three villages, the others being Balzan and Attard, situated in the central part of the island. Constructed in 1857 by the Maltese architect Giuseppe Bonavia, it originally formed part of the gardens of a large villa owned by the Depiro family but it was separated from the property when the street in which it now stands was constructed. The word ‘belvedere’ comes from the Italian language and is usually given to structures or towers that command a fine view of their surroundings. When the Belvedere in Lija was built, it commanded unobstructed views of the surrounding countryside and villages. These days the area has been heavily urbanised and even a climb to the top of this structure will only give you a view of houses, houses and more houses with, perhaps, a glimpse of a few fields in the distance.

Due to its rather whimsical architectural style, people from the locality sometimes refer to it as the ‘wedding cake’. Indeed, its three separate levels do resemble the tiers on a traditional wedding cake. I love this shot in sepia, as it makes it seem as if the photo was taken back when the tower was built – well, as long as you ignore the traffic sign in the centre.

The Belvedere

Transfiguration Avenue

Lija

Castello Zammitello

2010-11-23T22:25:00.001+01:00

Built around 300 years ago, this small castle surrounded by fields is within walking distance of the village of Mgarr. It was built in the Norman style and its main aim was to serve as a look-out post for any corsairs who may have anchored their ships in the near-by bay of Gnejna.

This small castle, of course, has its own legend. One version of the legend is that Lucia, the daughter of Baron Bernardo Zammit, disappeared on the day she was to marry an elderly Sicilian count. Her distraught father, believing she had been carried away by corsairs, ordered an armed search of the nearby bay – to no avail. A year later, the bells of the local church started tolling unexpectedly and a vision of Lucia, clad in a nun’s habit, appeared on the altar. Lucia confessed that she had run away from home to avoid marrying the elderly count and had taken refuge in a convent. After taking her vows she had spent the past year tending the wounded in a foreign land only to be killed by a stray arrow. I wonder is the ghost of Lucia sometimes wanders through the rooms of her old home …

In recent years the castle has been refurbished and is being used as a venue for weddings and other private functions.

Castello Zammitello

Gnejna Road

Mgarr

Please go here if you are interested in organising a private event at this historic castle.

Of Bridges and Stairs

2010-11-15T22:28:00.001+01:00

I know that comparisons are odious but, for some reason, I cannot help but compare cities. And sometimes, without even meaning to, I find myself comparing our old capital city, Mdina, to our current capital city, Valletta. Both are beautiful in different ways and while I feel that I know Mdina like an old and loved friend, I have not explored Valletta that well – perhaps because it is a young upstart when compared to the older capital which has been around for at least 3000 years. But I am slowly making amends and walking around Valletta with a camera in my hands and trying to make up for lost time. That’s how I cam across this wonderful little place aptly named The Bridge Bar - because at the foot of the stairs …

… a bridge crosses the road below.

Door Knockers of Malta

2010-11-08T22:23:00.001+01:00

There was a time when every door on the island had some form of door knocker. Some were just simple rings but the door knockers of the large houses and palaces were works of art in brass or bronze. Today I am sharing some of my favourites.

While all of them served a practical purpose, looking at these door knockers of yesteryear makes me wonder whether there was some type of competition going on between the house owners as to who would come up with the most elaborate and beautiful door knocker. I will leave it up to each one of you to choose a favourite.

Door knockers were photographed in Birgu and Mdina.

Wayside Chapels (5) – St Matthew at Il-Maqluba

2010-11-03T21:29:00.001+01:00

The chapel of St Matthew is situated right above the doline known as il-Maqluba on the outskirts of the village of Qrendi . There are actually two chapels adjacent to each other. The smaller building that you can see towards the left of the photo below is the first chapel dedicated to St Matthew that was built on this site. The style of the building and its interior suggest that this chapel was built in the middle ages.

The day we happened to visit the area, the care-taker of the chapels was making preparations for a wedding so we were able to go inside both the chapels. The interior of the older chapel is quite bare with a beautiful carved motif on and behind the altar.

The bigger chapel, which was built in 1674, is a product of the Baroque era with small stained-glass windows and a large titular painting of St Matthew hanging over the altar.

The original painting was by the renowned artist Mattia Preti and was completed in 1688. It is now in safe-keeping while a copy hangs in its place. This precaution was taken after the Preti painting was stolen in the 1960s.

The church was hit by a bomb during the war and some structural changes were carried out on the facade: two belfries were added while the central belfry was removed.

Glimpses of Grand Harbour

2010-10-29T23:39:00.001+02:00

I may be biased but I think that Malta has one of the most beautiful harbours in the world. I love how its mood seems to change with the different light. This harbour has witnessed many battles and has sheltered hundreds of ships, its turbulent past is now part of history. On the ramparts that surround it, the guns are forever silent and the only sound that breaks the stillness is the gentle sighing of the wind and the mournful wail of some ship’s fog horn as it sails away to a distant shore.

A Kitchen Called Victory

2010-10-18T19:32:00.001+02:00

The recent refurbishing of a shop-front in Valletta led to the discovery of the sign above. Victory Kitchens were opened by the Government at the height of WW2 to alleviate the suffering of the population by distributing free food. In 1942 there was a total of 42 Victory Kitchens in different towns and villages around the island. This particular sign had been painted over and forgotten for many years. It has now been restored and serves as a reminder of those bleak days when the world was at war.

The Legend Of The Place They Call ‘Il-Maqluba’

2010-10-13T20:19:00.001+02:00

On the outskirts of the village of Qrendi, beneath a chapel dedicated to St Matthew (more about that in a future post) is a circular depression in the ground. It is known as ‘Il-Maqluba’ which roughly translates to ‘the upside-down one’ or the ‘inside-out one’. This natural depression is said to have been formed in 1343, after a particularly severe winter, possibly accompanied by an earthquake. Il-Maqluba was formed by the collapse of the underlying limestone strata. In geological terms, this is known as a doline. The place is now a sink-hole and collects water from the surrounding fields and country-side. That is the scientific explanation of what happened.

But there is a more colourful story, of course. It is said that a small village of evil people lived right over the area where the depression is today. A pious lady who lived in the area where the chapel is now situated repeatedly warned her neighbours to change their evil ways – to no avail. As a result, God decreed that the ground beneath the village would collapse, sparing none except the good woman. Angels were then sent to dispose of the hamlet by dumping it at sea. This is said to be how the small island of Filfla, a few miles off the south-west coast of Malta, originated. I suppose that this is a case when the legend is so much more interesting than the truth.

The doline itself is 15 metres deep and has a perimeter of 300 metres. It supports a variety of trees such as bay laurel, sandarac gum, carob and hawthorne and other endemic vegetation.

Equipped with a rope and some sturdy shoes, it is possible to go down into the doline – something which I still need to do. Perhaps this winter I will try to experience Il-Maqluba from the bottom looking up, as opposed to always peering down the steep slopes at its lush green interior.

For an aerial view of il-Maqluba, go here.

Wayside Chapels (4) – St Mary Magdalen

2010-10-04T21:51:00.001+02:00

On a breezy day a couple of weeks ago, we drove to the little town of Dingli and then headed on towards the cliffs which drop vertiginously into the deep blue sea. The summer heat and drought has de-nuded the cliffs and, shorn of the short-rooted plants that grow in the garigue in the cooler months, their jagged edges look sad and forlorn, waiting patiently for the rain that will give them back life.

It is on these cliffs that the chapel dedicated to St Mary Magdalen is situated.

Three steps lead to a small one-roomed building. With the sheer cliffs behind it and the towns of Rabat, Mtarfa and Mdina in the distance, this chapel commands one of the most outstanding views on the Island.

I could not find much information about this chapel other than that it was built in 1640 to tend to the needs of the farmers that made a frugal living from the little terraced fields in pockets of soil on the cliff-face. During the winter months this area is a favoured picnic stop by many but, in summer, it is surrounded by silence and the gentle sighing of the wind.

The Pink Persian

2010-09-27T20:03:00.001+02:00

No matter how many times I’ve wandered though the streets of our capital city, it seems that Valletta never ceases to surprise me. Sometimes I wonder if my eyes have just been opened to the wonder of it all. This pink shop front literally made me stop dead in my tracks. I had passed this way many times before. Was it really possible that I could have missed such a whimsically painted store all those other times?

But now my curiosity is even more piqued. What went on behind that pink facade? Maybe it used to be a restaurant. Or a dance hall. Or possibly a store selling belly-dancing costumes. If only I could find a clue … but this city guards its secrets too well. I will just continue to wonder while looking forward to the next closely guarded secret that Valletta will reveal.

Happy Birthday Malta!

2010-09-21T18:10:00.001+02:00

Today, September 21, Malta celebrates its independence. After thousands of years of foreign rule, the island was granted independence from Great Britain in 1964. For hundreds of years, Malta’s strategic position in the middle of the Mediterranean made it a coveted prize to whatever super-power was dominant at the time. Our shores have seen battles and bloodshed. Our magnificent harbour could tell a thousand tales of the skeletal remnants of ships that lie slumbering beneath its surface.

Grand Harbour at twilight

But the wheel has turned and times have changed. The past belongs to history and what the future holds is still unknown. Hopefully, these islands will continue to play a part in world history and Malta will continue to celebrate many more birthdays in the future.

Photo source

Waterspout

2010-09-15T22:39:00.001+02:00

September is here and with it come the first storms. There is always a feeling of exhilaration in the air as the hot summer days unwillingly bow out and let the cooler days of autumn take their place. Storms at this time of year can be quite spectacular – with lots of heavy rain, thunder and lightning. Today, the northern part of the island got to witness a natural phenomenon which occurs every now and then – a waterspout.

Photo source

Unfortunately, I did not take this picture. I did not even see the waterspout. What am I talking about? We did not even get one drop of rain at my workplace in the southern part of the island. I am quite envious of people who managed to get a photo of it. Oh well … maybe next time.

Some more photos here.

Ruby Tuesday: A Most Unlikely Pear

2010-09-06T22:14:00.001+02:00

Perhaps you have seen them before. Perhaps you may have even eaten them. But there may be some among you who have never set eyes on these curious fruits. They go by the name of prickly pears. And prickly they certainly are. But pears? That they are not.

The prickly pear is the fruit of a cactus known as Opuntia ficus-india which was introduced to the Mediterranean from the Americas. It grows liberally here and even with no care at all, these cacti are usually laden with fruit at this time of year.

The fruit comes in three distinct colours: white, yellowish-orange and red. Once the firm, prickly skin is removed, the fleshy fruit can be eaten. Most prickly pears are very sweet and have a very characteristic taste. Here in Malta a liqueur called Bajtra (pronounced Baytra) is made from the fruit.

I thought the red colour of these fruit would make an appropriate entry for this week’s Ruby Tuesday.

If you are interested in seeing other posts featuring the colour red, please visit Mary at Work of the Poet.

Wayside Chapels (3) – St Agatha’s Chapel

2010-09-01T20:44:00.001+02:00

A simple facade – totally unassuming and easily missed amongst the more ostentatious palaces and houses of the old capital.

A clean, uncluttered interior; for the most part unadorned – virginal, almost, like the saint it is dedicated to.

And as the eyes get used to the dimness they are drawn, by coincidence or by design, to the only source of light pouring down from the sky above.

In the silent sanctuary prayers are fervently whispered and comfort is taken in the certain knowledge that they will be heard ….

A chapel to St Agatha was first built on this site in Mdina in 1410 by the nobleman Francesco Gatt and his wife Donna Paola Castelli. The original building was destroyed during a major earthquake that shook the island in 1693. The current chapel, also dedicated to St Agatha, was built in 1694 and was designed by renowned Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafa who was also responsible for the design of the cathedral of Mdina. Grand Master Wignacourt was present for the opening of this chapel in 1696.

Saint Agatha is one of the patron saints of the island together with Saint Paul and Saint Publius. There is a common belief here that Agatha escaped from her native Sicily because she was being persecuted for being a Christian and that she found refuge in Malta for a number of years. When she returned back to her homeland she was martyred by having both her breasts cut off.

When the Turks attacked the island in 1551 it is said that a nun had a vision in which Saint Agatha told her that the people of Mdina needed to take an image of her and all the soldiers and civilians were to carry it in a procession and place it on the bastions facing the enemy. The Turks are said to have been so impressed by the sheer number of defenders that they left the island and attacked the sister island of Gozo instead – carrying away the majority of the population into slavery. Fact or fiction? What is certainly true is that the Turks did try to attack Malta in 1551 and, for some reason, turned away and attacked Gozo, decimating the population. The rest could be a unique mixture of fact and fiction that is so essential for the birth of legends.

In the past the chapel of St Agatha was only open on February 5th – the feast day of the saint – but in recent years, the chapel has been restored and is now open to the public on a regular basis.

The Fountain of the Washerwomen

2010-08-20T22:08:00.001+02:00

On a steep hill leading to Mdina is an old, derelict building. Weeds and small bushes grow out of the cracks and crevices that time and the elements have carved in the stone. The red sign warns people to keep away because of the possibility of collapse; the crumbling stones give an indication of its age. At least four centuries have passed since this building was erected.

This is one of a number of wash-houses built by the Knights of St John in areas where natural springs were abundant even in the hot summer months. It was to these places that the village women would bring their dirty laundry. Some were servants at the big houses in Mdina, washing the clothes of the nobility for a few pennies. Others would just bring the washing of their whole family.

I can only imagine all the tales and gossip that these walls have must have heard as the clothes of the nobleman and the peasant were cleansed in the same spring water. I can almost hear the gay chatter and laughs of the women as they went about their arduous chore. Centuries later the only sound that can be heard is the gentle trickle of the water as it falls into the rough-hewn basins.

Note

Although this building is in imminent danger of collapse, some of these old fountains in other areas have been restored. The foundations of this particular wash-house, however, are built on clay which is why it is in such a bad shape. Hopefully a way of keeping this building intact will be found so that future generations will be able to appreciate our heritage.

Ruby Tuesday: Shop Front

2010-08-16T21:51:00.001+02:00

Up to now I have mostly shown you Valletta in sepia. But our capital city boasts its own bursts of colour. Like this bright red shop front in lower Merchants’ Street.

True, it is decaying and it has been locked and barred for years. But I dream that, one day soon, the wood will be restored and it will be re-painted in a gleaming new coat of ruby red paint. Sometimes I dare to dream that this shop will be mine and I will fill it with eclectic treasurse created by true artisans and in one corner I will have a section for vintage items, lovingly restored, waiting to find new families that will cherish them once more … I am such a dreamer.

I hope you enjoyed this glimpse of a little corner of Valletta. For more Ruby Tuesday posts from around the world, please visit Mary at Work of the Poet.

Valletta in Sepia (5) - Details

2010-08-12T22:29:00.001+02:00

Valletta is a masterpiece of Baroque craftsmanship. Intricate carvings abound all over the city. It is an architecture lover’s paradise and it also attracts people like me who love to point their camera at the little details that make this city so unique.

Thousands walk past this beauty everyday and I think that most of us fail to see the work that has gone into these centuries-old buildings. I love to visit Valletta when the shops and offices are closed, and it is all but empty of people, so that I can walk slowly and savour the beauty of another era.

P.S. Excuse the rather lop-sided look of this blog at present. I am trying to change the layout and am having some difficulty with certain things. Hope to solve all the little issues soon.

Reflections in a Convent Door

2010-08-06T22:09:00.001+02:00

Reflections of buildings in this convent door in Mdina. The convent was right next to our school and through the inner door you can see a part of the garden and a statue of Mary looking down benignly at the goldfish pond. I remember the goldfish were really fat but perhaps it’s not surprising since we were always feeding them some of our lunch. So many happy memories lie behind that door. So many secrets whispered in the drafty corners. So many friendships forged. So much laughter and, sometimes, some tears.

The school has now moved to more modern premises with larger grounds, tennis courts and even a swimming pool. So the corridors of this old building are now empty and only a handful of nuns are left to hear the echoes of hundreds of voices and to keep guard over our secrets. And Mary still watches over the pond remembering, perhaps, the girls that fed the goldfish.

A bit of nostalgia today for my Weekend Reflections. Visit James at Newton Area Photo for more Weekend Reflections from around the world.

Ruby Tuesday: Summer Fruit

2010-08-02T21:37:00.001+02:00

Plums and nectarines from my uncle’s trees – one of the blessings of our summer. Our fruit may not look perfect and it is often not very big, but each bite is a delight to the senses as the sweetness oozes out and washes over the taste buds leaving you wanting more. Too soon the local season for plums and nectarines will be over and we will be left with the bland supermarket offerings – perhaps nicer to look at but definitely nowhere near as delicious.

For more Ruby Tuesdays go to Mary at Work of the Poet.

Eating at the Priory

2010-07-23T22:29:00.001+02:00

On a breezy day last June, our wanderings took us, as they so often do, to Mdina. It was almost lunchtime when we got there so we headed towards a little cafeteria which we had never tried before. Although Mdina is dotted with enticing little restaurants, what makes this little gem extra special is its location. As perhaps its name implies, The Old Priory cafeteria is situated on the ground floor of the Carmelite Priory adjoining the Carmelite Church in Mdina.

As we lounged on our chairs I was struck by the austere beauty of this old place. The thick white-washed walls seemed to draw my eyes right up to the vaulted, painted ceilings.

There is an element of peace here, surrounded by so much simplicity. I wondered how many feet had trod on the worn tiles; how many prayers had been muttered in the hushed corridors and in the lonely, bare rooms the monks slept in - appropriately called cells. Perhaps there were some who entered the priory in the hope of escaping the outside world. Or perhaps they came seeking an inner peace. Was this their refuge or their prison?

In truth, this is a different world to the one we know so well. Sounds from the outside are muffled by the thick walls and the windows are set high up from the ground.

The sign over the door prohibits the entry of all those outside the priest-hood beyond that point.

Maybe we think of these men as leading lonely lives but I also believe that many of them had fulfilling lives, steadfast in their faith until the end.

And for those that did not find what they sought in those silent corridors beyond the door? Ah, I am afraid I do not know what fate was theirs.

Perhaps they too found a measure of peace and serenity or perhaps they just slowly faded away, their former lives forgotten, their sandaled feet shuffling softly in those lofty rooms until their last breath was spent.

As always, old places like this make me wonder what sort of life the monks used to lead. Fortunately the Carmelite Priory is now open to the public and tickets may be purchased to tour this interesting place. I am sure that, one day soon, we will make an effort to, not only eat at the priory but to also visit the rest of the monastery. On this day though, we were content to just enjoy a meal in peaceful surroundings.

When The Capers Bloom

2010-07-15T20:47:00.001+02:00

From mid-June to early July you will see people picking the caper buds that grow on wild bushes in the countryside. If you have never eaten capers, it is very hard to describe what they taste like. When first picked from the bushes they have a bland taste but after they are pickled in brine or vinegar (or a mixture of both) they will develop a sharp, tangy taste.

Photo source

When I was a young girl I often used to go and cut capers with my parents, but especially with my father. Even as I write this I can feel the heat of the sun drenched rocks and the silence enveloping everything – broken only by the shrill screech of some lonely cicada (some years they start their ‘singing’ early depending on how hot the weather is). The grass would be dry beneath our feet but, in the fields, we would discern the blush of peaches and plums through the leaves. It always felt good to be out there in the valleys, enjoying a glimpse of some shy lizard that happened to cross our path and delighting in the sight of butterflies and dragonflies dancing and dipping over our heads.

Photo source

The caper buds do not last very long and soon the buds will bloom into beautiful little flowers. It is then, when the capers bloom, that the heat seems to intensify and summer hits us in full force with its fiery breath.

The weeks ahead are an endless mesh of scorching hot days and balmy nights as the caper flowers wither and their beauty fades. But every time I add the caper buds to our sauces or our food, their tangy, aromatic taste takes me right back to my childhood, to the parched fields and the butterflies and to the time when the capers bloom.

You can go here and here for more information on capers and their use in different recipes.

A Glimpse of the Past

2010-05-31T23:12:00.001+02:00

I was walking up this narrow, winding street one bright April afternoon. There was nothing unusual about that. I must have walked this road at least a hundred times. Then suddenly I heard what sounded like a sob and a heart-broken cry. I looked up but all I could see was a tiny red window. No one else was in sight – and yet I felt that someone was very close.

I reached out and touched the limestone wall, etched deeply by rain that had long since dried up and caressed by winds that have blown themselves out, and I felt a connection to another time. An echo from the past whispered it tale. In the deepening silence I closed my eyes and let the walls pour out their story – a story of prejudice and misguided zeal, of families forced to abandoned their homes and livelihoods, of hasty conversions to avoid persecution and death.

I continued to touch the wall gently with the tips of my fingers, feeling the sad vibes of this family that has long since moved on and wondering … wondering who these ghosts were, what made them so sad … then a sign above the door brought the past hurtling back and I remembered …

The Jewish Silk Market

The above narrative is, of course, just something I made up but the event I am hinting at took place. The first Jews had settled in the Maltese islands at least 3500 years ago. Archeological proof from many areas of the island confirm that there was a fairly large Jewish community living here. Most of these Jews were shopkeepers, merchants or import-export agents. This mostly peaceful co-existence with the native population changed suddenly in 1492 when the Inquisition gave all Jews three months to leave the island or else convert to Christianity and forfeit 45% of their possessions. This was certainly not one of the most glorious moments of our chequered history. In the centuries that followed mutual distrust grew between the two nations. These hard feelings may have been laid to rest when, during WW2, Malta was the only European country that did not require Jews fleeing Nazism to have a visa. Consequently thousands of Jews were able to escape to freedom. For more information about Malta and the Jews, go here.

Weekend Reflections: Mirrors and Mosaics

2010-05-21T22:59:00.001+02:00

Several exhibitions were held during the Medieval Mdina weekend. One interesting exhibition, held at the Corte Capitanale (the former Courts of Justice), featured a number of very creative and colourful mosaics. Amongst them was this mirror framed by a simple yet eye-catching mosaic. The reflection is of the top of the opposite wall and of part of the adjacent archway.

Mosaics have been used as decorative art since ancient times. The oldest mosaic ever found dates back to the second half of the third millenium BC and was used to decorate a temple building in Ubaid, Mesopotamia. As witnessed during the exhibition, the art of mosaic-making is still thriving after five thousand years.

For more reflections from around the world visit James at Newton Area Photo.

Valletta in Sepia (4) – Our Lady of Victory Church

2010-05-07T21:18:00.001+02:00

This was the first church built in Valletta and it was built on the site where a ceremony was held to inaugurate the foundation stone of the new city in March 1566. The facade was given its current Baroque style in 1752. Following years of deterioration and neglect, the church was restored in 2004.

On a more personal note, my parents were married in this church in 1968.